Women and Acne

Do I have cosmetic induced acne?
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Using makeup with acne


Acne cosmetica

Cosmetic induced acne is so widespread that it has its own name, acne cosmetica. People typically experience cosmetic induced acne on the chin and cheeks more than on the forehead. It also presents as small, whitish bumps, sometimes referred to as "grains", which are more noticeable when the skin is stretched, although it can also show up as red, garden variety pimples. Cosmetic acne tends to scar less frequently, but can be incredibly stubborn, sometimes lasting for years as the person using makeup enters into a vicious cycle of covering the breakouts, which lead to further breakouts. Cosmetic induced acne can also be sneaky. It can take months to form. This can lead to confusion as a breakout seems to come out of nowhere, when in fact, cosmetics slowly caused it over time.

45% of women in a recent Brazilian study had dermatoses (skin disease) associated with the cosmetics they were using. 14% had active lesions due to cosmetics. These statistics mirror my own personal experience with working with women.

Unfortunately, I don't know of any completely safe cosmetics, although several people who I trust mention Almay as the safest brand. I realize that women who use cosmetics are often attached to them, and for good reason. Cosmetics can help make women more confident and happier. So we're in a Catch-22 situation. Fortunately, there are ways around this issue. I'll attempt to outline two scenarios below:

Sample conversations I often have with women who I coach through the regimen:

How I like it to go

Me: “I recommend you stop using makeup until you are completely clear on the regimen. You can continue to spot conceal if you’d like, but try to use makeup very sparingly until you’re clear. Once you are completely clear, you can add in one variable at a time, such as adding back in makeup. If you break out at that point, you’ll know it’s the makeup’s fault. If you stay clear, you’ll know that makeup is OK to use.”

Her: “OK. I know that’ll be hard, but I’ll try.”

tiny clock 4 weeks to 4 months of time pass…

Me: “So, how’s it going?”

Her: “I’m completely clear, and actually, I don’t need makeup anymore!”

How it sometimes goes

Me: “I recommend you stop using makeup until you are completely clear on the regimen. You can continue to spot conceal if you’d like, but try to use makeup very sparingly until you’re clear. Once you are completely clear, you can add in one variable at a time, such as adding back in makeup. If you break out at that point, you’ll know it’s the makeup’s fault. If you stay clear, you’ll know that makeup is OK to use.”

Her: “Ain’t no way.”

Me: “OK. I understand. In that case, try to use as little as possible, and be sure to use a large brand name. Drugstore brands tend to not break people out as much as department store brands.”

tiny clock 4 weeks to 4 months of time pass…

Me: “So, how’s it going?”

Her: “I’ve definitely improved, but I still have problems. I can’t seem to get completely clear.”

Me: “Well, are you at the point where you can just spot conceal until you get completely clear?”

Her: “Yeah. I’ll try it.”

tiny clock 2 months of time pass…

Me: “So, how’s it going?”

Her: “I’m clear! But I want to use makeup sometimes. What do I do?”

Me: “Try to save it for special occasions, and experiment with different brands to see which are kindest to your skin.”

Her: “What brands exactly?”

Me: “I’m not an expert, but you can check out the makeup messageboard for tips and suggestions.”

References

Draelos ZD, DiNardo JC. “A re-evaluation of the comedogenicity concept.” Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. 2006 Mar;54(3):507-12.

Duarte I, Campos Lage AC. “Frequency of dermatoses associated with cosmetics.” Contact Dermatitis. 2007 Apr;56(4):211-3.

Hayashi N, Imori M, Yanagisawa M, Seto Y, Nagata O, Kawashima M. “Make-up improves the quality of life of acne patients without aggravating acne eruptions during treatments.” European Journal of Dermatology. 2005 Jul-Aug;15(4):284-7.

Matsuoka Y, Yoneda K, Sadahira C, Katsuura J, Moriue T, Kubota Y. “Effects of skin care and makeup under instructions from dermatologists on the quality of life of female patients with acne vulgaris.” Journal of Dermatology. 2006 Nov;33(11):745-52.

Nguyen SH, Dang TP, Maibach HI. “Comedogenicity in rabbit: some cosmetic ingredients/vehicles.” Cutaneous and Ocular Toxicology. 2007;26(4):287-92.

Poli F. “Cosmetic treatments and acne.” La Revue du Praticien. 2002 Apr 15;52(8):859-62.

Toombs EL. “Cosmetics in the treatment of acne vulgaris.” Dermatologic Clinics. 2005 Jul;23(3):575-81.