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what makes something comedogenic?

just wondering what makes something comedogenic?

put another way... how do comedogenic ingredients induce comedones? do they increase cell shedding within the follicle, or do they actually integrate into the sebum to make it thicker and more prone to clogging up?

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just wondering what makes something comedogenic?

put another way... how do comedogenic ingredients induce comedones? do they increase cell shedding within the follicle, or do they actually integrate into the sebum to make it thicker and more prone to clogging up?

There are several mechanisms that make a particular raw material or finished product coemdogenic. Some of which are still not known....

The general test for comedogenicity doesn't differentiate between the different mechanisms of the develpoment of cosmetic acne. The product or material in question is applied to human skin (usually on the back of a test subject). If the product blocks sebaceous glands in the area, then when sebum production increases, accompanied by a simultaneous blockage of the sebaceous gland openings, the closed sebaceous glands become infected by bacteria, which produce porphyrin as a metabolite. Porphyrin can be excited by light, and displays fluorescence that can be measured by to detect the early onset of acne lesions caused by application of that product or raw material. If it's non-comedogenic than there will be no flourecence detected, because the bacteria haven't infected a closed sebaceous gland....

I'm sure that there are some materials, like "oils", heavy esters, or wax like materials, that are miscable with sebum, and increase it's viscosity to a point where it can't flow through the philosebaceous duct onto the surface of the skin....causing a backup of sebum and desqumating corneocytes within the follicle that blocks the pore.

There are others raw materials that may interfear with the keratinization and desquamation processes that cause the skin cells to shed abnormally (oleic acid and other free fatty acids seem to have this effect as well as some "botanical" extracts) without directly affecting sebum viscosity. I'm guessing that these types of comedoes take much longer to form, since the skin cell cycle is about 26-30 days, so I don't think the effects of these materials on the develpoment of cosmetic acne are usually seen in standard comedogenicity tests....so yes products can pass a comedogenicity test and still be comedogenic...especially on acne prone skin....

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Porphyrin can be excited by light, and displays fluorescence that can be measured by to detect the early onset of acne lesions caused by application of that product or raw material. If it's non-comedogenic than there will be no flourecence detected, because the bacteria haven't infected a closed sebaceous gland....

that is very interesting. i never knew they could use fluorescence to detect infection like that. makes sense though.

sorry cant think of anything else to say...

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