This is an absolutely bulletproof acne coverage technique I've developed over the years using a modified combination of Lisa Eldridge's pinpoint spot-concealing methodand Wayne Goss' budge-proof method for foundation application ( ). This is a full but TARGETED coverage.

This kind of spot-concealing may seem at first like it takes longer than just slathering foundation over your entire face, but trust me, after practicing a few times, you'll get super quick at it, and the time you'll save on touch-ups throughout the day will make it so worth it. Not only does the end-result look so much more flawless and natural, but its staying power is second to none. Most importantly, it is so much healthier for your skin to only pinpoint cover the areas that actually need covering and leave the rest of the skin alone. If you've been covering your acne using the standard method (i.e. applying foundation all over, directly to bare or moisturized skin) you'll find once you start using this new method that over time your pores will begin to unclog and shrink as they'll no longer be filled with foundation oils for long periods of time.

If you're a face-toucher, an athlete, or just have oily, flaky, combination skin that foundation (no matter how high-end) slides off of, cakes up on, and ends up looking like crud within hours of applying--essentially making your acne MORE noticeable and the clear portions of your skin LESS noticeable-- I promise, this technique will be your godsend.

Items you'll need:

* Very clean hands
* A clean, fluffy powder brush
* A quality, finely-milled, silica-based loose finishing powder (ideally transluscent)
* A quality, wax-based concealer of your choice that matches your skin tone
* A pressed powder of your choice that matches your skin tone (optional)
* Organic/Non-GMO Cornstarch and a small dish to hold it
* A setting spray of your choice

Items you can ditch:

* Your siliconebased primer
* Your "all-over" foundation (you'll only be using concealer)
* Your beauty blending sponge

Step #1

Liberally apply your moisturizer over a clean, exfoliated face. I personally can't use ANY moisturizer (and I have tried them all), so I use a rotation of Monistat and Clotrimazole cream, which totally obliterates flaky skin and acne caused by yeast, plus happens to make a lovely makeup primer--I also apply it over my lips as it prevents excessive peeling and flaking (also usually caused by yeast).

Step #2

With a clean, fluffy brush, apply the silica based loose powder. Dust it everywhere that needs coverage--face/neck/chest/etc.The powder MUST be silica-based. It locks your moisturizer into your skin, smooths over pores, evens out skin texture, and believe it or not, even provides slight coverage. But most importantly, itcreates a barrier between your clean, moisturized skin and your makeup.This "barrier" does a few wonderfully unexpected things: firstly, it keeps your makeup from settling into and/or clogging your pores and directly off of active or healing acne; secondly, it absorbs oil and sweat from your skin as the day goes on and keeps it from mixing with your makeup (which causes it to melt, shift, and cake); and lastly, it gives something for your concealer to grip on to and partially sets it, making it easier to build coverage just in the spots where you need it, without getting cakey.

**NOTE: Do try to avoid inhaling the silica powder while applying. Your lungs are not a fan.

Step #3

Press your finger lightly into your wax-based concealer (I am fond of MAC's Studio Finish Concealer/Pro Full-Coverage Foundation [they're the same formula], and Laura Mercier's Secret Camouflage) to pick up a small amount of product and patover blemishes ONLY--remember, you are just spot concealing, not covering any skin that isn't blemished/scarred/discolored. Continue applyingin thin layers overproblem spots until you have achieved your desired level of coverage, and gently blend using this patting motion, feathering it into the surrounding area.This tutorial demonstrates the spot-pattingtechnique I'm describing really well (even though she has mostly clear skin, it works the same for every skin-type):

Why wax-based concealers? Three reasons: 1) *Quality* wax-based emollients will use jojoba oil in their formula (an oil that most closely mimics the skin's natural sebum), and will also be free of lanolin oil; 2) They are highly pigmented and provide the most naturally buildable coverage with the least amount of product if applied and set correctly; 3) When set correctly, they provide the most moisture-resistant coverage with the longest and cleanest wear.

Reasons why your wax-based concealers/foundations aren't wearing well: It's all about the application. Firstly, wax-based formulas should never be mixed with water in their application (i.e. applied with a damp beauty blender sponge, despite what you've been told by some beauty gurus). Water breaks down and separates the waxover time. Even if it looks flawless when you first apply it this way, it won't stay that way(even iftoppedwith a finishing powder). You should only ever use clean fingers or a clean, dry, synthetic bristle brush for application. Secondly, since wax is (obviously) oil based, it will thin out when mixed with other oils (i.e. your skin's natural oils and/or moisturizers). Applying it directly to your skin will almost always result in the formula thinning, shifting, and settling into pores, fine lines, and textured skin. This is why it wears best when applied over translucent silica powder--which prevents it from mixing with your skin's oils and sweat and partially sets it. It must also be fully set with a finishing powder to keep it from rubbing off or melting from external heat.

**NOTE: This rule applies to other foundation formulas as well to prevent pilling and increase longevity. Most primers are silicone based, and they should only be paired with silicone based foundations; liquid mineral foundations should be set with mineral finishing powders; and water based liquid foundations should be paired with water based primers (Laura Mercier makes a very good water based primer) .

https://www.reddit.com/r/MakeupAddiction/comments/25hkqi/how_to_tell_if_your_foundationprimer_is_silicone/

Step #4 (optional)

Once you are satisfied with your spot-concealing, take your favorite pressed powder and usingthe puff applicator,PRESS or pat (don't drag) first over the areas you've concealed, and then over any other areas of the face with uneven skin tone. Skip this step if you don't need or desire any further coverage.

Step #5

Empty a little corn starch (YES, corn starch!) onto a dish and pick a very small amount up with your powder brush, patting it very conservatively over the spots you concealed as well as areas where you get particularly oily causing other makeup to smudge (like the eyelids,below the eyes , and around the nostrils). Be very careful to be gentle with this application so as not disturb any of the concealing work you've done. No other setting powder I've tried sets wax-based concealers as competently (and cheaply!) as plain old corn starch. Your makeup isn't going ANYWHERE now.

Step #6

Finish everywhere with your setting spray of choice. This is an important step because it not only sets all the powder to prevent it from transferring, but it takes away the "powdered" look, leaving a natural skin-likefinish. Personally, Ilike to add some fresh aloe vera to my setting spray for a bit of extra moisture.

Step #7

If needed, gently (and conservatively) repeat step three over any concealed spots that were disturbed by your powder brush, but DON'T overdo it, or risk it caking.

If you don't wear any other makeup, you're done! If you do, proceed with the rest of your routine.