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timmoore

mandelic versus salicylic

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which of these two acids(mandelic or salicylic) is more oil-soluble?

which one has water solube properties?

do these acids work in cleansers or do they have to be left on face longer to peel?

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With Mandelic acid, you should apply it after washing your face on its own, and leave it alone for as long as possible. It's not thick and won't form a layer you can "peel".

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They are both organic compounds with alcohol functional groups and thus they have 'polar' regions, which makes them soluble in water, which is also a polar substance. Oils, which are effectivly non-polar, do not mix with polar substances without using an emulsifier (- which reduces the surface tension of water). In short, they are both soluble in water, but neither should be significantly soluble in oil.

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They are both organic compounds with alcohol functional groups and thus they have 'polar' regions, which makes them soluble in water, which is also a polar substance.

alcohol??

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Which one is more effective at cleaning out pores? I've been using BHA for a year and it has indeed cleaned out my pores but not 100%.

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So I can't say how accurate this is but here are the Octanol/water partition coefficient as log Pow.

Salicylic Acid = 2.2

Mandelic Acid = 0.6

To me, this suggests that Salicylic Acid is, can't find my calculator but say, 13 times more fat soluble than Mandelic Acid. I guess this is what you would expect as eurovision50 was pointing out in Mandelic Acid the polar groups - alcohol (OH) and carboxyl (COOH) - are further away from the phenyl ring than in Salicylic Acid. But they are chemically very similar. You have to take into account that with Salicylic Acid coming in 1-2% and Mandelic Acid coming in 10-15% the difference will be reduced simply by one being more concentrated than the other.

Which will be better at getting into pores or clearing blackheads? I have no idea. I imagine that sebum is very complex and the clogged pores will contain dead skins cells as well as oil so I'm not sure that it would be predictable.

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Which one is more effective at cleaning out pores? I've been using BHA for a year and it has indeed cleaned out my pores but not 100%.

mandelic acid is from the AHA group

salicylic is the BHA

Both can be used in combination (though not at the same time) to achieve a clearer complexions.

AHA is used primarily for exfoliating the surface of the skin with BHA goes deeper into the pore. e

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Salicylic is definitely more lipid-soluble than mandelic .... though mandelic is more lipid soluble than other AHAs. (This is discussed in more detail in the mandelic thread.)

Salicylic is not effective in a cleanser; you need a leave-on product that is mild enough to stay on your face for at least 30 minutes. Paula's Choice makes a really good BHA product that is low pH (for effective exfoliation) yet not irritating.

Because mandelic is anti-fungal and anti-bacterial, it is an effective ingredient in a cleanser. The cleanser won't do anything for blackheads, though; for exfoliation, you need the leave-on product.

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So far as I know, mandelic products are only sold online or thru spas and salons.

You can find the NuCelle product line on Amazon.com, I think .... and the Vivant line is available through www.betterhealthyskin.com

For blackheads and clogged pores, a mandelic cleanser will not be particularly effective; it doesn't stay on the skin long enough to exfoliate the pores. I suggest a leave-on product in the 10% - 15% strength.

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