Ethnic skin and acne

Spots left behind from acne
(Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation)

Dark spots on the skin

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, also known as dark spots or red spots that are left after acne lesions heal is a common difficulty that acne sufferers with non-Caucasion skin share. Hyperpigmentation is common among people of African, Asian, and Latino descent, as well as other forms of "ethnic" skin. Various forms of acne therapy are often mistakenly blamed for the creation of these marks, but it is the skin's inflammatory process which creates them. These marks can take months (and in rare cases even years) to fade. Although they are often referred to as "scars," they are not permanent. Nonetheless, they cause many people intense distress. Often, people with hyperpigmentation describe this issue as more concerning than the acne itself.

How to prevent hyperpigmentation: Picking at acne lesions is perhaps the worst culprit when it comes to these marks. Absolutely do not pick at acne lesions. Properly pop a pimple if you must, and then leave the lesion alone. Also, while it may seem intuitive to scrub marks away, harsh scrubbing will only prolong their duration and should be avoided. Next, wearing a sunscreen is a huge help in getting these marks to fade as fast as possible. But the best way to prevent the marks is to treat the acne itself, thus preventing future acne lesions and the chance of any hyperpigmentation that they might leave behind. Acne in ethnic skin is treated the same as acne in Caucasian skin and responds extremely well to the Regimen here at Acne.org. When acne is severe, widespread, and deeply scarring, it also responds well to Accutane.

How to treat hyperpigmentation: There are many ways to treat these marks. After the acne itself is successfully treated and under complete control, people sometimes opt to try one or more of the treatments listed below.

  • Retinoids: Tretinoin (Retin-A®) - this topical treatment can help fade marks. Azelaic acid (Azelex®) may prove even better because it may have a hypopigmentary (lightening) effect by inhibiting melanin (skin pigment). Retin-A® reviews. Azelex® reviews.
  • Hydroquinone: (Bleach Eze®) This is the only lightening treatment approved by the FDA. It is normally used at 4%. In higher concentrations it can cause "spotted halos" around marks. It may have other negative effects as well. The addition of ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) to a topical hydroquinone treatment may help minimize the oxidation of hydroquinone.
  • Peels: Salicylic acid peels, Jessner's® peels, and TCA peels are all mentioned in the medical literature as treatments for hyperpigmentation. These peels must be administered by professionals. TCA peel reviews. Chemical peel reviews.
  • Dry ice cryotherapy: Doctors will sometimes use application of dry ice to help the mark fade.
  • Microdermabrasion: Performed at salons and estheticians' offices, microdermabrasion is a popular option. However, abrading the skin can cause irritation and perpetuate the acne cycle. I would personally avoid microdermabrasion. Microdermabrasion reviews.
  • In one article doctors also describe regular topical application of lactic, kojic, and glycolic acid as helpful. (Quarles et al., 2007) Lactic acid peel reviews. Glycolic acid peel reviews.
  • Interestingly, in one article, a doctor spoke about how he uses a combination of hydroquinone/retinoid/corticosteroid to apply directly to dark spots.
  • Lastly, nicotinamide is mentioned once in the literature as a helpful treatment for inflammation. Nicotinamide reviews.

Helpful link: Frances, one of Acne.org's earliest members, posted a nice overview of hyperpigmentation.

References

"Skin of Color." American Academy of Dermatology. 2009 Feb. link

Adegbidi H, et al. "Keloid acne of the neck: epidemiological studies over 10 years." International Journal of Dermatology. 2005 Oct; 44 Suppl 1:49-50.

Al-Waiz MM, Al-Sharqi AI. "Medium-depth chemical peels in the treatment of acne scars in dark-skinned individuals." Dermatologic Surgery. 2002 May; 28(5):383-7.

Callender VD. "Considerations for treating acne in ethnic skin." Cutis. 2005 Aug; 76(2 Suppl):19-23.

Chan HH, et al. "The prevalence and risk factors of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation after fractional resurfacing in Asians." Lasers in Surgery and Medicine. 2007 Jun; 39(5):381-5.

Quarles FN, et al. "Acne vulgaris in richly pigmented patients." Dermatologic Therapy. 2007 May-Jun; 20(3):122-7.

Taylor SC. "Cosmetic problems in skin of color." Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology. 1999 May-Jun; 12(3):139-43.

Taylor SC. "Utilizing combination therapy for ethnic skin." Cutis. 2007 Jul; 80(1 Suppl):15-20.