Emulsifiers impair skin barrier function by removing the lipids & other protective substances made by your skin. In
your skin. Not just the surface. And emulsifiers aren't just in cleansers. They are used in creams & lotions to keep the ingredients blended together.
"Meanwhile, the number of indications and publications with critical statements regarding the use of emulsifiers in skin care products is steadily increasing. The reason for it are findings that emulsifiers can cause modifications in the horny layer:
They manipulate the integrity of the barrier layers which are part of the horny layers and which consist of very sensitive, so-called lipid bilayers.
Emulsifiers will not loose their emulsifying properties in the skin. There are exceptions: low doses of soaps which are transformed into acids like palmitic and stearic acids due to the acid milieu of the skin. These acids also are naturally present in the skin.
The lasting emulsifying capacity of the emulsifiers penetrated into the skin causes an increased transport of skin-own protective substances out of the skin especially when the skin comes in contact with water (shower).
For this reason, conventional creams frequently are not tolerated by consumers with skin problems as e.g. neurodermitics and psoriatics."
- (German company. The translations to English are a little off at times)
Then I looked up palmitic acid to see what it said & found this in an article about plant oils:
"The evaluation of fatty oils which are also used as lipid phase in creams specifically depends on which types of fatty acids are bonded to glycerin to which percentage (fatty oils = triglycerides: three fatty acids are bonded to one glycerin molecule). In the skin the fatty acids are hydrolyzed by enzymatic reaction of the triglycerides and then used as a substrate for various other processes.
Thus the palmitic acid
of the avocado and wheat germ oil has an excellent protective effect as it is a component of the skin barrier.Linoleic acid,
a double unsaturated essential ω-6 fatty acid is chemically bonded to the ceramide I which also is an important barrier component. Larger quantities of linoleic acid can be found in grape seed, safflower and soybean oil. Just like the α-linolenic acid,
ω-3 fatty acid of linseed and rose hip oil; and γ-linolenic acid,
ω-6 fatty acid of evening primrose and borage oil, the linoleic acid
is transformed into an anti-inflammatory hydroxy fatty acid (13-HODE, 13-HOTrEg, 13-HOTrE) by 15-lipoxygenase of the skin.
Beyond that, γ-linolenic acid is an essential substance for those atopics who are not able to synthesize the acid from linoleic acid due to an enzyme defect."
By atopics, they mean people with atopic dermatitis. Which is an impaired epidermal barrier resulting in fragile, super sensitive easily irritated skin.
Edited by alternativista, 28 June 2014 - 02:51 PM.