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Biggest Mistakes People Make to Treat Acne:


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#821 The_Snow_Queen

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Posted 11 May 2007 - 07:39 AM

QUOTE(Viscosity @ May 11 2007, 04:17 AM)  
Hello, I have read Snow's opening post and was shocked at some of the information that was given. It made me question the product I just bought a few days ago, Clean And Clear Continuous Acne Cleanser.

This cleanser has menthol, fragrance, mineral oil, sodium c14-16, and bp 10% from what I read right off the back. From reading what what Snow said, I take it this should be a product to be avoided.
I find it curious as to why it was given such good marks here on Acne.org.

http://www.acne.org/rate_item.php?item_id=38

Thankyou for your time.


Although product reviews can be useful in determining the application, feel, finish, etc... of a product, I very rarely use product reviews to determine how well a product works. There are many reasons for this, including:

1) Often users haven't been using the product long enough (a month at the very minimum) to determine whether or not that product is really working

2) Users often don't include what other treatments they are using which might instead be responsible for their improved skin conditions, or provide incomplete lists of treatments

3) Users can falsely think that acne pimples must be "dried up" and think the dryness they're experiencing is a good thing when it is really a sign of irritation

4) Products which contain irritants like menthol produce a cooling/tingling sensation, a sign of irritation, which tricks users into thinking that a product is "working"

5) A user might associate fragrances, like lavender, with the quality of a product

Mineral oil is not bad for the skin, though it can be beneficial for acne sufferers (particularly those with oily skin tpyes) to avoid oils and moisturizers in general. The acception to this is of course during the daytime, when a sunscreen must be used. However, there are now some very lightweight sunscreen options available that are not likely to cause breakouts or feel greasy on the skin.

Salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide can be very effective acne treatments, but I don't recommend them in cleansers.

#822 contrariwise

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Posted 11 May 2007 - 09:22 AM

QUOTE(Dave Suave @ May 10 2007, 08:29 PM)  
Thank you Snow Queen

Are there any moisturizers with SPF that you recommend? Preferably one I can find at a drugstore. Or is it better to use a sunblock that does not contain moisturizer? I use Complex 15 moisturizer, and it has no SPF.

Almay daily moisturizer for normal/combination skin with grape seed has an SPF of 15 and it's wonderful. It has antioxidants that can help soothe the irritation you are experiencing. It might help with your flakes, too.

#823 The_Snow_Queen

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Posted 11 May 2007 - 03:25 PM

QUOTE(contrariwise @ May 11 2007, 09:22 AM)  
QUOTE(Dave Suave @ May 10 2007, 08:29 PM)  
Thank you Snow Queen

Are there any moisturizers with SPF that you recommend? Preferably one I can find at a drugstore. Or is it better to use a sunblock that does not contain moisturizer? I use Complex 15 moisturizer, and it has no SPF.

Almay daily moisturizer for normal/combination skin with grape seed has an SPF of 15 and it's wonderful. It has antioxidants that can help soothe the irritation you are experiencing. It might help with your flakes, too.


That would work too. It contains a broad-spectrum sunscreen and ingredients which are not likely to cause irritation or breakouts. Because Almay is best-known as a makeup brand, Almay skincare products are often times found in the makeup aisle.

#824 whatamess

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Posted 11 May 2007 - 05:32 PM

Hi Snow Queen,

Thanks for making the recommendation for Eucerin Redness Relief face wash. I absolutely love it!

I have a question about Aveeno's sunscreen. Any concerns? Or a recommendation for a better product?

AVEENO SUNBLOCK LOTION, FACE, SPF 30

INGREDIENTS:
Active Ingredients: Avobenzone 3.0%, Homosalate 10.0%, Octisalate 5%, Octocrylene 2.4%, Oxybenzone 5%

Inactive Ingredients: BHT, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cetyl Alcohol, Cetyl Dimethicone, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Cholecalciferol, Diethylhexyl 2,6 Naphthalate, Dimethicone, Disodium EDTA, Fragrance, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Glycine Soja Seed Extract (soybean), Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Methylparaben, PEG 100 Stearate, Phenoxyethanol, Polysorbate 60, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Propylparaben, Retinyl Palmitate, Silica, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Squalane, Synthetic Beeswax, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Trimethylsiloxyamodimethicone, VP/Eicosene Copolymer, Water, Xanthan Gum

Many thanks.

#825 hlcasile1986

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Posted 11 May 2007 - 08:06 PM

Did you get all these info from Paula Begoun, especially from her book, The Beauty Bible? Sounds a lot like it.

#826 The_Snow_Queen

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Posted 11 May 2007 - 11:03 PM

QUOTE(whatamess @ May 11 2007, 05:32 PM)  
Hi Snow Queen,

Thanks for making the recommendation for Eucerin Redness Relief face wash. I absolutely love it!

I have a question about Aveeno's sunscreen. Any concerns? Or a recommendation for a better product?

AVEENO SUNBLOCK LOTION, FACE, SPF 30

INGREDIENTS:
Active Ingredients: Avobenzone 3.0%, Homosalate 10.0%, Octisalate 5%, Octocrylene 2.4%, Oxybenzone 5%

Inactive Ingredients: BHT, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cetyl Alcohol, Cetyl Dimethicone, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Cholecalciferol, Diethylhexyl 2,6 Naphthalate, Dimethicone, Disodium EDTA, Fragrance, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Glycine Soja Seed Extract (soybean), Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Methylparaben, PEG 100 Stearate, Phenoxyethanol, Polysorbate 60, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Propylparaben, Retinyl Palmitate, Silica, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Squalane, Synthetic Beeswax, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Trimethylsiloxyamodimethicone, VP/Eicosene Copolymer, Water, Xanthan Gum

Many thanks.


It is a broad-spectrum sunscreen, but all the fragrance it contains might be a problem. Are you looking specifically for an SPF 30 sunscreen, or would an SPF 15 sunscreen be OK? You might like the SPF 15 lotions Dove, Olay, and Almay make. You might also like some of the lotions Clinique offers, which come with higher SPF ratings. Or you might like Neutrogena's Dry-Touch Sunscreens, which also come with higher SPF ratings (though if you have areas of dry skin you'll probably need to wear a separate moisturizer underneath over those dry areas).

QUOTE(hlcasile1986 @ May 11 2007, 08:06 PM)  
Did you get all these info from Paula Begoun, especially from her book, The Beauty Bible? Sounds a lot like it.


I did learn most of what I know from Paula Begoun after reading her book, The Beauty Bible, though not everything.

#827 whatamess

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Posted 12 May 2007 - 08:30 AM

Good morning!

I put on Dove SPF 15 every day, but yesterday I got a sunburn, so I thought I'd look into something with a higher SPF. Plus, I have patches on my face that are darker, so I want to cover them with a higher SPF in hopes that they will eventually blend in with the rest of my face! Following your recommendation, I think I may go with Neutragena Dry Touch 30 or 45.

Thank you.


#828 The_Snow_Queen

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Posted 12 May 2007 - 10:57 AM

QUOTE(whatamess @ May 12 2007, 08:30 AM)  
Good morning!

I put on Dove SPF 15 every day, but yesterday I got a sunburn, so I thought I'd look into something with a higher SPF. Plus, I have patches on my face that are darker, so I want to cover them with a higher SPF in hopes that they will eventually blend in with the rest of my face! Following your recommendation, I think I may go with Neutragena Dry Touch 30 or 45.

Thank you.


Part of your problem may also have been that you did not apply enough sunscreen or that you needed to reapply your sunscreen

If you haven't already seen it, you may find this article, which details facts about sun exposure and proper sunscreen application, helpful:

http://www.cosmeticscop.com/learn/sun.asp?ID=163

Wearing sunscreen is an important part of preventing dark patches from occuring and worsening, but you'll probably find that you need the help of an inhibitor of melanin production to help fade them. Some over-the-counter options you can try use hydroquinone, an FDA approved skin lightener. One hydroquinone product you may be particularly interested in is Paula's Choice Clearly Remarkable Gel, which contains 2% salicylic acid as well meaning that you wouldn't need to buy a separate exfoliant.

NEVER use hydroquinone products at the same time as products containing benzoyl peroxide, or else you will experience a temporary staining of the skin.

If benzoyl peroxide is a necessary part of your regimen, you may get benefit from using a product containing kojic acid. However, kojic acid is a very unstable ingredient, so it's not unlikely that a kojic acid product you buy will become ineffective. Pevonia Lightening Gel is one hydroquinone-free skin lightener which contains kojic acid, as well as azelaic acid and an alpha hydroxy acid (ingredients which can also fade discolorations), that you may be interested in, though it's expensive.

Some users find that using a combination of over-the-counter retinoids, like Green Cream, in conjunction with alpha hydroxy acids helps fade discolorations.

You can also see your dermatologist for prescription-only skin lighteners, such as Azelex (a 20% azelaic acid cream). In addition, Azelex was approved in 1999 by the FDA for the treatment of acne because its disinfecting properties and ability to help pore function can benefit acne sufferers. Prescription retinoids, which can also help fade discolorations, may also be prescribed to you to use along with other melanin production inhibiting treatments.

You might find this article about skin lighteners useful:

http://www.cosmeticscop.com/learn/art.asp?ID=157

#829 The Melodramatic Fool

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Posted 13 May 2007 - 06:58 PM

Thank you, that's really helpful. smile.gif
I have a question:
Can Differin be used with sulfur? Or salicylic acid?

Thanks in advance.

#830 The_Snow_Queen

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Posted 14 May 2007 - 08:56 PM

QUOTE(The Melodramatic Fool @ May 13 2007, 06:58 PM)  
Thank you, that's really helpful. smile.gif
I have a question:
Can Differin be used with sulfur? Or salicylic acid?

Thanks in advance.


According to the makers of Differin, salicylic acid and sulfur can be used with the treatment with caution. If you just started using any one of these treatments, you may not want to apply them separately until your skin has gotten used to the treatment(s), which should take a few weeks. Disinfectants like sulfur can be used as often as twice daily but must be used at least once daily. Salicylic acid can be used as often as twice daily and as little as once every other day, though you'll probably find that you get best results using it at least once daily. Differin is most effective when used once daily or once every other day, and the makers say that using it once daily is preferred. You can combine treatment applications, depending on how well your skin reacts, though I would probably not use all three treatments at once.

There are very few well-formulated salicylic acid products on the market. Most either have too high of a pH to act as exfoliants, contain skin irritants like drying alcohols, or both. Medicated cleansers are not effective because the medication gets rinsed away. In addition, these products usually have too high of a pH to allow the salicylic acid to exfoliate anyway. If you let the cleanser sit on your skin a few minutes in hopes of giving the treatment time to working, you are also giving the cleansing agents in the cleanser time to cause problematic irritation for your skin. The reason why many people say salicylic acid cleansers are harsh is because they typically use harsh surfectants like sodium C14-olefin sulfonate; the problem is not the salicylic acid, but rather the cleansing agent used. A great example of one such salicylic acid cleanser is Neutrogena Oil-Free Acne Wash. And it is not just salicylic acid cleansers that have a reputation for being harsh, but salicylic acid products in general. Again, this is the fault of "inactive" ingredients like SD alcohol 40 or other common skin irritants. When in well-formulated products, salicylic acid is relatively gentle for most people. As mentioned before, though, there are very few well-formulated salicylic acid products availabe. If you're not using one of the salicylic acid product recommended in the first post to this thread, chances are it's not well-formulated and you shouldn't be using it (and especially not with Differin).

Sulfur itself has an alkaline pH, which may affect the effectiveness of your salicylic acid product and retinoids. When used as the active ingredient in disinfecting products, those products may have been formulated to have a neutral or acidic pH, meaning that they would not negatively impact the effectiveness of salicylic acid and prescription retinoids. Just to be safe, I would recommend waiting between fifteen minutes and a half hour prior to applying sulfur when using a pH-sensitive product, or testing the pH of your sulfur product so you know for sure.

Differin is considered a retinoid because of the way it interacts with retinoid receptors, but is not actually a vitamin A derivative. I think I remember reading online that Differin had a higher pH than other retinoids and is not pH-sensitive in the way that Retin-A is, but could not find the site again. I would still recommend waiting fifteen minutes and a half hour prior to using sulfur treatments as mentioned above, unless you know that your sulfur product does not have an alkaline pH. If nothing else, this will at least help lessen the amount of irritation you will experience from using such treatments.

#831 mangos21

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Posted 15 May 2007 - 11:45 PM

Hi Snow Queen. This is the 3rd or 4th time I'm coming to you for advice, haha. Right now my regimen is:

Morning:
-Cleanse with Cetaphil
-Apply 2.5% BP Aqua-Gel
-Moisturize with Dove Deep Moisture Day Lotion

Night:
-Cleanse with Cetaphil
-Apply 2.5% BP Aqua-Gel
-Moisturize with Dove Sensitive Skin Essentials Lotion

The thing with my skin is that its very oily - so oily that my skin at times changes its tone significantly (when I haven't cleansed it in a while). I use the Dove SPF 15 lotion in the morning that you recommended and it moisturizes very well. The problem is that it makes my skin look kind of overly greasy - is the clinique spf 15 lotion you use a better option than dove?

#832 The_Snow_Queen

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Posted 16 May 2007 - 05:01 AM

QUOTE(mangos21 @ May 15 2007, 11:45 PM)  
Hi Snow Queen. This is the 3rd or 4th time I'm coming to you for advice, haha. Right now my regimen is:

Morning:
-Cleanse with Cetaphil
-Apply 2.5% BP Aqua-Gel
-Moisturize with Dove Deep Moisture Day Lotion

Night:
-Cleanse with Cetaphil
-Apply 2.5% BP Aqua-Gel
-Moisturize with Dove Sensitive Skin Essentials Lotion

The thing with my skin is that its very oily - so oily that my skin at times changes its tone significantly (when I haven't cleansed it in a while). I use the Dove SPF 15 lotion in the morning that you recommended and it moisturizes very well. The problem is that it makes my skin look kind of overly greasy - is the clinique spf 15 lotion you use a better option than dove?


The Clinique sunscreen I use is matte and not very hydrating, but that's great for oily skin because oily skin does not need a moisturizer at all. The sunscreen is very slightly tinted; I would recommend testing it out at a Clinique counter prior to purchase. If you order online from Clinique's official web site it is my understanding that you can be refunded for used products that you dislike, though don't quote me on that. If you have both areas of dryness and oiliness, you can spot treat those dry areas with a moisturizer prior to applying sunscreen and at night under no sunscreen.


#833 alana20

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Posted 16 May 2007 - 05:11 AM

hi snow queen..what do you think of this new cleanser? its a new line called NAKED...

ive just got the softening rose face wash and its only £4 from boots, heres the info;

Rose is With No Clothes - this Naked face wash is 96% natural and you'll never find any parabens, petrochemicals or sodium lauryl sulfate in our ingredients list.

Naked Rose Softening Face Wash contains rose that is known to be soothing and can leave your face really soft. Bursting with antioxidants which fight free radicals, rose can help protect your skin from the signs of ageing.
60 kilos of damask roses were cold pressed to get enough rose oil for just one bottle of our Softening Face Wash.



ingredients Aqua, lauryl glucoside, cocamidopropyl betaine, capryl/capramidopropyl betaine, sodium PEG-7 olive oil carboxlate, lauryl betaine, PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, xylitylglucoside, anhydroxylitol, xylitol, rosa damascena, rosa centifolia, bisabolol, EDTA, sodium chloride, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, trideceth-9, parfum, citric acid, magnesium chloride, magnesium nitrate, methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone, citronellol, geraniol, linalool.

so any1 who knows about ingredients etc...is this a yay or nay? please let me know b4 i slather it on!


#834 The_Snow_Queen

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Posted 16 May 2007 - 05:21 AM

QUOTE(alana20 @ May 16 2007, 05:11 AM)  
hi snow queen..what do you think of this new cleanser? its a new line called NAKED...

ive just got the softening rose face wash and its only £4 from boots, heres the info;

Rose is With No Clothes - this Naked face wash is 96% natural and you'll never find any parabens, petrochemicals or sodium lauryl sulfate in our ingredients list.

Naked Rose Softening Face Wash contains rose that is known to be soothing and can leave your face really soft. Bursting with antioxidants which fight free radicals, rose can help protect your skin from the signs of ageing.
60 kilos of damask roses were cold pressed to get enough rose oil for just one bottle of our Softening Face Wash.



ingredients Aqua, lauryl glucoside, cocamidopropyl betaine, capryl/capramidopropyl betaine, sodium PEG-7 olive oil carboxlate, lauryl betaine, PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, xylitylglucoside, anhydroxylitol, xylitol, rosa damascena, rosa centifolia, bisabolol, EDTA, sodium chloride, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, trideceth-9, parfum, citric acid, magnesium chloride, magnesium nitrate, methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone, citronellol, geraniol, linalool.

so any1 who knows about ingredients etc...is this a yay or nay? please let me know b4 i slather it on!


The cleanser would be better if it didn't contain the rose extract and other additional fragrances, which are irritating to the skin (as far as I know there is no conclusive research that rose is beneficial to the skin; if it does have antioxidant properties there are less-irritating antioxidants available). Since this is a rinse-off product and the rose extract is not in contact with the skin for very long, it is probably not too much of a problem for the skin unless your skin is very reactive. Subsequently, any beneficial ingredients would also be rinsed off the skin; these are best used in leave-on products. The cleansing agents used appear to be mild.

The best way to protect the skin from aging is to wear a broad-spectrum SPF 15 or higher sunscreen regularly, although antioxidants are beneficial to the skin as well.

#835 alana20

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Posted 16 May 2007 - 05:45 AM

so really do u think its better to stick to a basic cleanser like jnj top to toe wash?

#836 gunlak

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Posted 16 May 2007 - 06:18 AM

Should i not use soap bar face cleanser? (glycerin based)



#837 The_Snow_Queen

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Posted 16 May 2007 - 05:49 PM

QUOTE(alana20 @ May 16 2007, 05:45 AM)  
so really do u think its better to stick to a basic cleanser like jnj top to toe wash?


It is always better to use gentle cleansers. You can't scrub away breakouts, and the irritation can aggravate. If you have oily skin and buy a drying cleanser, that won't prevent the oil from coming back and your end result will be both flaky and greasy skin.

I can't comment on specific cleansers without seeing complete ingredients lists.

#838 The_Snow_Queen

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Posted 16 May 2007 - 05:52 PM

QUOTE(gunlak @ May 16 2007, 06:18 AM)  
Should i not use soap bar face cleanser? (glycerin based)


Bar soap should never be used on the skin. They tend to have alkaline pH levels, which encourages bacterial growth. The ingredients which keep them in bar form can leave a pore-clogging film on the face. Bar soaps inevitably contain harsh cleansing agents; sometimes bar soaps contain emollient ingredients like shea butter to mask the drying effects, but these emollients add to the risk of more clogged pores because they also do not rinse well from the skin. Always use surfectant-based and soap-free liquid cleansers.

#839 rileynash

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Posted 19 May 2007 - 02:16 AM

Thanks for all the info guys!

#840 Shandon2

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Posted 19 May 2007 - 08:45 PM

Cetaphil has sodium lauryl sulvate...why is that so bad if its supposed to be a gentle cleanser?





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