Titre du document / Document title
Azeloyl-glycine: A new active in skin disequilibrium
Auteur(s) / Author(s)
RIGANO L. ; CUCCHIARA M. ;
Résumé / Abstract
The dermatological uses of Azelaic acid are related to its anti-sebhorreic, anti-mycotic and anti-acne properties. However, its limits in topical formulations are well known, even when it is used at lower concentrations than the pharmacological ones. Firstly, a high percentage amount is required to be effective. Secondly, being insoluble at high concentrations, it provides poor cosmetic properties to the formulations, which result to be thick and difficult to spread over the skin. Finally, its solubilisation by adequate chemical methods (e.g. neutralisation) brings to loss of Azelaic acid content during shelf life, as it decarboxylates. In order to overcome these problems a new molecule, Potassium Azeloyl di-Glycinate, has been produced. It exhibits very high water solubility, high specific activity at low concentration, low toxicity and adequate chemical stability and compatibility. Serial cosmetic efficacy essays have been carried out with informed volunteers. The preliminary results are very interesting. It proved very effective as skin whitening agent and sebum normalizer. In addition, other skin parameters like moisturization and some elastic properties show remarkable improvements. As far as applications are concerned, a pre-systematic study on all the cosmetic functionalities has identified the most proper cosmetic forms for preparing topic formulations. Finally, complete formulations have been developed, in order to use the sebum normalizing and skin lightening properties of this new raw material.
Revue / Journal Title
Journal of applied cosmetology ISSN 0392-8543
Source / Source
2003, vol. 21, no4, pp. 177-188 [12 page(s) (article)]
Langue / Language
Anglais

Editeur / Publisher
International Ediemme, Roma, ITALIE (1983) (Revue)

Localisation / Location
INIST-CNRS, Cote INIST : 20296, 35400011048437.0040

Azeloyl Glycine is a new type azelaic acid derivative that resolves many of the "stumbling blocks" azelaic acid carries with it. Azeloyl Glycine offers higher solubility in water, requires less dosage, has better effects of whitening, and better effects controlling the secretion of sebum.

Many experiments indicate that Azeloyl Glycine is a safe, highly effective, and multifunctional cosmetic ingredient.

Sensitive skin types have found it easier to tolerate than azelaic acid.