Many thanks to Mumblesorusjen for posting this article in the Acne Research forum .... and to Lorrie for suggesting that we spread the news.



The pH (power of hydrogen) factor is a term most of us have heard but which few understand the significance of as it relates to skin care. Calculated on a scale of one to 14, pH refers to the levels of acid or alkaline in a substance. Below seven is acidic, above is alkaline, and seven – the approximate optimum level for the body – is neutral. However, skin has a different pH and to avoid and treat dry skin, it is important to choose skin care treatment products that have the proper pH balance.

The pH of normal skin ranges from 4 to 6.5, which is slightly acidic. This acidic environment is referred to as the skin’s ‘acid mantle’. It contains a number of different acids including lactic acid, amino acids and free fatty acids. One of the major functions of the acid mantle is to protect the skin and body from the absorption of bacteria. As bacteria cannot survive in an acidic environment, maintaining the correct level of acidity is vital.

If the acid mantle is disrupted, the skin also becomes more susceptible to damage. Although acid and alkaline are on opposite ends of the spectrum, either disrupts the pH and either can cause dry skin.

Alkaline stronger than pH 8 is very irritating to the skin and, unfortunately, the majority of skin care treatment products and household cleansers are far too alkaline. Most skin care soaps have a pH factor of 9 to 11 and many household cleansers range between 10 and 12. Oven cleaners come in around pH 13, which is why using rubber gloves is recommended.

When the acid mantle is disrupted by using skin care treatment that is too alkaline, it takes about 14 hours for the skin to get back to normal. However, by that time we’ve usually used the products again so, in fact, the damage never really gets repaired. The result is apparently permanent dry skin.

Fortunately, the condition is not actually permanent and you can start improving it by reading product labels. Often a label will state the pH or describe the product as ‘pH balanced’ which is supposed to denote a pH that approximates that of the skin – although, to be certain, I would look for the number, not just the ‘pH balanced’ designation. Look for skin care products that are between pH 4 and 7 and you will be on your way to preventing and treating dry skin.


[article from http://www.theopenpress.com/index.php?a=press&id=16033]

Part I: Avoiding Harmful Products


When Buying Products

Don't Buy Cleansers That:

1. Contain harsh surfectants like sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate.

2. Are in bar form. These contain harsh cleansing agents like sodium cocoate, and the ingredients that keep them in bar form can be absorbed into the skin to clog pores. Also, many bar soaps have alkaline pH levels, which actually encourages bacterial growth.

3. Are daily scrubs containing uneven particles like walnut . These can tear at the skin and cause irritation.
Look for scrubs with smooth, round, bead-like particles.

4. Contain waxy, pore-clogging thickeners. Products in cream form tend to have these.

5. Contain animal oils*. Animal oils resemble human sebum and can clog pores similarly.

4. Give a "tingly" or "cooling" feeling. That feeling is caused by skin irritants like menthol and camphor.

5. Are medicated. If the medication contains a chemical exfoliant like salicylic acid, the cleanser is almost certain to have too high of a pH (over 4) to allow it to act as an exfoliant. Chances are that the majority of any medictation used in a cleanser will be washed away before having any real effect. If you let a medicated cleanser (either one containing a chemical exfoliant or one containing benzoyl peroxide) sit on the skin in hopes of giving the medications time to penetrate, than chances are you'll also be allowing the cleansing agents time to irritate the skin.

* Emu oil for some reason seems to be an exception according to users of this site.

Don't Buy Toners or Astringents That:

1. Contain drying alcohols, witch hazel, peppermint, or other skin irritants.

2. Contain animal oils. (See "Don't Buy Cleansers That:")

3. Contain rice or corn ingredients, as these can encourage bacterial growth.

Don't Buy Salicylic Acid Products* That:

1. Contain skin irritants like drying alcohols, witch hazel, peppermint, or other skin irritants.

2. Have a pH higher than 4 or else the salicylic acid will not be an effective exfoliant. A good idea of a product's pH can be obtained with pH indicator strips.

3. Contain rice or corn ingredients (See "Don't Buy Toners or Astringents That:")

* Most salicylic acid products are not pH correct, contain irritants, or both.

Don't Buy Benzoyl Peroxide Products:

1. That contain skin irritants.

2. To use in conjunction with prescription retinoids (with the exception of adapalene which is used in Differin). Benzoyl peroxide renders most retinoids unstable and should be applied only in the morning if a prescription retinoid is being used at night.

3. Contain animal oils. (See Don't Buy Cleansers That:")

Don't Buy Tea Tree Oil Products That:

1. Contain skin irritants.

2. Have less than a 5% concentration of tea tree oil, or more than a 15% concentration. Too little tea tree oil is likely to be ineffective, and too much may be irritating. You can, however, buy pure tea tree oil and dilute it, so long as you aim for the right concentration.

3. Contain animal oils. (See Don't Buy Cleansers That:")

Don't Buy Moisturizers That:

1. Are in cream form. (See "Don't Buy Cleansers That:")

2. Contain animal oils. (See "Don't Buy Cleansers That:")

3. Contain rice or corn ingredients. (See "Don't Buy Toners or Astringents That:")

4. Contain skin irritants.

Don't Buy Sunscreens That:

1. Are in cream form. (See "Don't Buy Cleansers That:")

2. Contain animal oils. (See "Don't Buy Cleansers That:")

3. Contain rice or corn ingredients. (See "Don't Buy Toners or Astringents That:")

4. Do not contain avobenzone, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, mexoryl sx, or tinosorb; the ingredients recognized by the FDA to provide adequate UVA protection.

5. Do not have an SPF of 15 or higher.

6. Contain skin irritants.

In General

1. Don't use products that contain skin irritants. Skin irritants prematurely kill skin cells, littering the skin with more dead skin cells than it can naturally slough off, thus creating a greater risk of clogged pores. Skin irritants also interfere with the skin's healing process, which can result in an increase in bacteria.

Some common skin irritants are:

Alcohols. Ethanol (grain alcohol), denatured alcohol, ethyl alcohol, methanol, benzyl alcohol, isopropyl, and SD alcohol should be avoided. (Exceptions: Ingredients like cetyl alcohol or stearyl alcohol are fatty alcohols. Some alcohols like SD alcohols can be used in small amounts. An ingredient is in a small amount if it appears at the end of an ingredients list).
Ammonia
Arnica
Balm mint
Balsam
Bentonite (can be used in the occasional clay mask, but avoid frequent use or formulations which contain other "actives")
Benzalkonium chloride (if it is one of the main ingredients)
Benzyl Alcohol (if it is one of the main ingredients)
Bergamot
Camphor
Cinnamon
Citrus juices and oils
Clove
Clover blossom
Coriander
Cornstarch
Essential Oils
Eucalyptus
Eugenol
Fennel
Fennel oil
Feverfew
Fir needle
Fragrance (may be listed as "Parfum")
Geranium
Ginger
Grapefruit
Horsetail
Jasmine
Lavender
Lemon
Lemongrass
Lime
Linalool
Marjoram
Melissa (lemon balm)
Menthol, Menthyl Acetate, and Menthyl PCA
Mint
Oak bark
Orange
Oregano
Papaya
Peppermint
Phenol
Rose
Sandalwood oil
Sodium C14-16 olefin sulfate
Sodium lauryl sulfate
TEA-lauryl sulfate
Thyme
Wintergreen
Witch hazel
Ylang-ylang

2. Don't base your use of a product on whether or not it says "non-comedogenic," "oil-free," "hypo-allergenic," "dermatologically tested," and similar terms. These are flashy marketing terms that have no regulations, therefore, they can mean anything. As mentioned earlier, products with waxy thickeners and animal oils (not plant oils) are most likely to clog pores. Mineral sunscreen ingredients like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide can clog pores, though synthetic sunscreens like avobenzone can irritate the skin of certain people and also trigger breakouts. Everyone is different and will be sensitive to different ingredients, so there is no real way of knowing what will or will not clog pores, just what may clog pores. One other thing- acne can take two weeks to form, so if you break out right after starting a product, don't assume that product was the culprit.

3. Don't use specialty products (chemical exfoliants, moisturizers, etc...) that are in jar packaging to minimize air exposure. Oxygen can render certain ingredients unstable. Also, with jar packaging, there is a concern for product contamination. Sunlight can also render certain ingredients unstable, so if you buy a product in clear packaging, be sure to store it in a dark space (such as a medicine cabinet or drawer).

4. Don't assume that the stronger a product (i.e. the higher the concentration of an active ingredient), the more effective it will be. Using a product that is too strong for you may cause irritation that can worsen acne. What is a good strength varies by person.

5. Don't assume that naturally-occurring ingredients are better for your skin. As can be seen by the list of common skin irritants above, there are plenty of ingredients both man-made and naturally-occurring that can be irritating to the skin.

6. Don't touch your face if you can avoid it so as to prevent the spread of contaminants.

7. If you have trouble with inflammatory acne, change your bedding often (once a week), and keep anything that touches your face frequently (like a phone or washcloth) clean and disinfected to prevent the spread of contaminants.

8. Don't use makeup testers on your face to prevent the risk of contamination.

9. Don't apply your moisturizer over areas of your face that are not dry. Applying moisturizer where it is not needed can increase the risk of clogged pores by mixing with excess sebum and "gluing" dead skin cells to the skin's surface.

10. Don't tan. Tanning only temporarily masks acne, damaging the skin in the process, which can actually lead to a worsening of acne. Even if tanning did help, it's not worth the risk of skin cancer, premature aging, cataracts, cellulite, and rosacea associated with unprotected sun exposure.

11. Don't steam the skin or rinse with hot water as this can cause irritation and capillaries to surface. It is best to wash with luke-warm water.

12. Don't give up on a new regimen. You need at the very minimum one month and preferrably two to see results. When using prescription retinoids, you need at least three months.

13. Don't over-scrub the skin as this can cause irritations. It is best to use gentle, circular motions. When drying the face, pat the skin dry as opposed to rubbing it dry.

14. Avoid doing anything to aggravate a pimple. It may be beneficial to pop one provided the pimple is ready to pop, but only apply light pressure. Never squeeze, scratch, or pick at it. If light pressure does not release the contents of a pimple, you will likely worsen it should you increase that pressure.

15. Don't use more than one method of exfoliation at once. For example, don't use a scrub followed by a salicylic acid product, or a salicylic acid product followed by an alpha hydroxy acid product. You risk over-irritating the skin.

16. Don't generously apply products (with the exception of sunscreen, which should be generously applied). Usually only a dime-sized amount / thinly applied layer is all that's needed for the entire face. Over-applying products can be harmful to the skin.

17. Be happy! Who knows, your skin might even get clearer as a result. If not, it's better to have acne and be happy than it is to have acne and wallow in gloom.


__________________________________________________________________________



Part II: Building a Regimen

Here are some products you could use to help build your own customized regimen, which are also listed in the responses below.
I recommend building a basic regimen that includes at the minimum these steps:

1) Cleansing with Lukewarm Water
2) Exfoliating
3) Disinfecting (If You Have Inflammatory Acne)
4) Moisturizing Dry Areas Only (Nighttime)
5) Applying Sunscreen to All Exposed Areas of Skin (Daytime)

You can also include other steps in your regimen, like the application of toners which don't contain chemical exfoliants (not that toners containing chemical exfoliants shouldn't be used if that's your method of exfoliation) or of retinoids. Also, you don't have to apply all these products at the same time; for example, you can exfoliate as often as twice a day or as little as once every other day. You should, however, cleanse twice daily.

Something I want to make very clear is that I am not advertising a cure for acne. The above mentioned steps follow skin care basics and are beneficial to most people. Subsequently, using a regimen following these steps may result in clear skin, but it may make absolutely no change whatsoever. If you use the wrong products or can't tolerate certain steps like exfoliation or certain types of ingredients like benzoyl peroxide, it might even make your skin worse. If you're looking for a starting point to treating acne or have been following a damaging skin care routine and want to stop, I definately recommend giving such a regimen a chance, but I don't want to give anyone false hope that their acne will disappear from following it. You may have a stubborn case of acne that is beyond the help of over-the-counter treatments, in which case I advise you seek a dermatologist's help. I also want to stress that the treatments I recommend below are not the only decently formulated products out there (though the salicylic acid products I listed are the only ones I know of that are both pH correct and gentle).


Some cleansers you may want to consider are:

Clinique Liquid Facial Soap Mild Formula
Eucerin Baby Aquaphor Gentle Wash
Eucerin Redness Relief Cleansing Gel
Paula's Choice (any cleanser)
Purpose Gentle Cleansing Wash


Some manual scrubs you may want to consider as exfoliants are:

Essential Nutrients Daily Exfoliating Cleanser with Soft Massage Beads
Nivea for Men Energizing Face Scrub (women can use this too)


Some toners (not containing chemical exfoliants) you may want to consider are:

Biotherm Biosensitive Soothing Refreshing Spring Mist
Clinique Mild Clarifying Lotion*
Derma E Pycnogenol Facial Toner, Fragrance Free
Nivea Visage Moisturizing Toner
Paula's Choice Toners

*This contains about a 0.5% concentration of salicylic acid at a pH of around 4, making it minimally effective for exfoliation, though you probably won't notice a significant difference in your skin due

Some salicylic acid products you may want to consider as exfoliants are:

Bare Vitamins Skin Rever-Upper (if it really has a pH of 3.8, as the company claimed in an e-mail)
Neutrogena Rapid Clear Acne Defense Face Lotion
Olay Total Effects Anti-Aging Anti-Blemish Daily Moisturizer
Paula's Choice 1% or 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid products*
Serious Skin Care Clarifying Treatment

*Paula's Choice makes by far the best salicylic acid products


Some benzoyl peroxide products you may want to consider as disinfectants are:

Dan's Clear Skin Regimen Gel (2.5%)
Jan Marini Skin Research Benzoyl Peroxide (2.5%)
Mary Kay Acne Treatment Gel (5%)
Oxy Balance, Sensitive Skin Acne Treatment, Vanishing Formula (5%)
Paula's Choice Blemish Fighting Solutions (2.5% or 5%)
Persa-Gel 10, Maximum Strength (10%)
Zapzyt 10% Benzoyl Peroxide

Some tea tree oil products you may want to consider as disinfectants are:

Derma E Tea Tree and Antiseptic Cream* (5%)
Desert Essence 100% Pure Australian Tea Tree Oil (diluted; aim for between a 5 and 15% concentration in your mixture)

*This product is in jar packaging, so the vitamin E and other antioxidants won't be stable, but the tea tree oil should work. It is also in cream form, which users may want to be wary of.

Some over-the-counter retinol* products you may want to consider are:

Diacneal with 6.4% Glycolic Acid
Green Cream
Jan Marini Factor-A Lotion
Makeup Artist's Choice Retinol Serum (which comes in clear packaging, so store it in a dark place)

*Products containing retinol do not necessarily produce similar results to prescription retinoid products

Some moisturizers you may want to consider are:

Dove Sensitive Essentials Daytime Lotion (no SPF)
Green Canyon Spa Skin Barrier Serum
Malibu Hemp Moisturizer Body Lotion for Dry Skin
Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Moisture Gel
Zia Natural Skincare Herbal Moisture Gel

Some sunscreens you may want to consider are:

Clinique Super City Block SPF 25 Oil-Free Daily Face Protector
Jan Marini Antioxidant Daily Face Protector
M.A.C. Daily SPF 15 Light Moisture
Neutrogena Active Breathable Sunblocks
Neutrogena Ultra-Sheer Dry-Touch Sunsblocks
Proactiv Solution Oil-Free Moisturizer with SPF 15

There is an esthetician in the San Francisco Bay Area who has a very high success rate with patients who come in for acne. She and her staff are passionate in this area. In particular, I'm hoping she'll fill in where I leave off when it comes to non-inflammatory acne (the stuff that stays under the skin and doesn't get red). Please post your questions for her by replying to this thread and I will ask her your questions in our interview. Questions on blackheads are welcome as well.

Thanks!

Dan

Since so many people including myself have questions about BHA's and AHA's, I thought I would post this for everyone to read and learn about them. I got it from the Paula's Choice website so I have to give her props for educating us. It's long but very imformative. Read and learn:

Understanding Exfoliants

AHAs vs. BHA
There are two primary topical ways to exfoliate skin, either with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), or with beta hydroxy acid (BHA). There is only one BHA (beta hydroxy acid) and that is salicylic acid, but there are a variety of AHAs. The five major types of AHAs that show up in skin-care products are glycolic, lactic, malic, citric, and tartaric acids. Of these, the most commonly used and most effective AHAs are glycolic and lactic acids. Both of these have the ability to penetrate the skin, plus they have the most accumulated research on their functionality and benefit for skin.

What glycolic, lactic, and salicylic acids both do is "unglue" the outer layer of dead skin cells, allowing healthier cells to come to the surface. Removing this dead layer can improve skin texture and color, unclog pores, and allow moisturizers to be better absorbed by the skin. Both AHAs and BHA affect the top layers of skin, and they help to improve the appearance of sun-damaged, dry, and/or thickened skin. Sun damage in particular causes the top layer of skin to become thicker, creating a dull, rough appearance on the surface of skin (Sources: Archives of Dermatologic Research, June 1997, pages 404–409; Dermatologic Surgery, May 1998, pages 573–577). There is even research showing AHAs can generate collagen production (Sources: Experimental Dermatology, April 2003, (Supplemental), pages 57-63 and Dermatologic Surgery, May 2001, page 429.)

Because AHAs and BHA work through chemical processes, they can penetrate the skin and produce better results than cosmetic scrubs, which work only on the exposed surface of the skin. And, there is no risk that AHAs and BHA will cause you to lose too much skin. Technically, there is a drop-off rate, meaning the AHA and BHA will exfoliate just the dead or damaged surface skin and leave the healthy skin alone. This is the main reason why you will see a drop-off in performance when using an AHA or BHA product. The dramatic results in the beginning of usage (when the thickened, discolored layers of skin are being removed) seem much more impressive than the results from continued use. This is to be expected, and it is important to note that continued use of an AHA or BHA product is required in order to maintain skin’s smooth, even-toned, healthy appearance.

The primary difference between AHAs and BHA is that AHAs are water-soluble, while BHA is lipid-(oil) soluble. This unique property of BHA allows it to penetrate the oil in the pores and exfoliate accumulated skin cells inside the oil gland that can clog pores. BHA is best used where blackheads and blemishes are the issue, and AHAs are best for sun-damaged, thickened, dry skin where breakouts are not a problem (Source: Global Cosmetic Industry, November 2000, pages 56–57).

pH Sensitive AHA and BHA
AHAs work best at concentrations of 5% to 10% with a pH of 3 to 4, and their effectiveness diminishes as you go above a pH of 4.5. BHA works best at concentrations of between 1% and 2%, and at an optimal pH of 3, diminishing in effectiveness as you go past a pH of 4. Both AHAs and BHA lose their effectiveness as a product's pH goes up or the concentration of the ingredient goes down. (Source: Cosmetic Dermatology, October 2001, pages 15–18).

If the cosmetics industry isn't forthcoming about the necessary percentages and pH for a BHA or AHA product (and most companies aren't), how can you tell if it provides decent or effective exfoliation? Consumers can't, not unless they are shopping with pH measuring paper in hand, which is exactly how I rate exfoliants when I review products for my book, newsletter, or Beauty Bulletin. As a general rule, it is best if the AHA ingredient is either second or third on the ingredient list, making it likely that the product contains a 5% or higher concentration of AHAs. For salicylic acid, because only a 2% to 0.5% concentration is required, it is fine if this ingredient is located toward the middle or end of the ingredient list.

It is interesting to not that at any pH, AHAs provide the added benefit of helping to keep water in the skin at the same time that exfoliation is taking place. This is due to the way they affect skin cells adding increased protection. AHAs can also increase the production of ceramides in the skin, which help keep it moist and healthy (Source: Dry Skin and Moisturizers Chemistry and Function, edited by Marie Loden and Howard Maibach, 2000, page 237).

While BHA penetrates deeper into the pore than AHAs, it can be less irritating than AHAs. This is due to BHA's relation to aspirin. Aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid) has anti-inflammatory properties and BHA, salicylic acid, is derived from aspirin and on the skin, retains some of its same anti-inflammatory benefits.

AHA and BHA products can definitely smooth the skin, fade signs of sun damage, correct uneven skin tone, improve texture, unclog pores, and give the appearance of plumper, firmer skin (because more healthy skin cells are now on the surface). Unfortunately, they have no residual effect—when you stop using them the skin will go back to the condition it was in before you started.

AHA Confusion
There are AHA sound-alikes, including sugarcane extract, mixed fruit acids, fruit extracts, milk extract, and citrus extract. You may think you've purchased a more natural AHA product when you see these less technical names, but that isn't the case. Although glycolic acid is derived from sugarcane, and lactic acid from milk, that doesn't mean sugarcane extract or milk extract are the same as glycolic or lactic acid, yet they do share these acid’s water-binding properties, in much the same way as salicylic acid share’s the anti-inflammatory properties of its relation, aspirin.

Unless you see glycolic, lactic, malic, tartaric, or citric acid on the ingredient list, it's all too vague and meaningless, making it impossible to determine what you are really buying. My advice is to be very suspicious of any product that claims an association with AHAs but contains a variety of sound-alike ingredients.

BHA Confusion
Products boasting that they contain a natural source of salicylic acid (BHA) usually add willow bark. Willow bark contains salicin, a substance that when taken orally is converted by the digestion process to salicylic acid. That means the process of converting willow bark to salicylic acid requires the presence of enzymes to turn the salicin into salicylic acid. The likelihood that willow bark in the tiny amount used in cosmetics can mimic the effectiveness of salicylic acid on skin is in all likelihood impossible. However, willow bark may indeed have some anti-inflammatory benefits for skin because, in this form, it appears to retain more of its aspirin-like composition.

What About Higher Concentrations of AHAs?
Removing the outer layer of skin can be taken too far, and many cosmetic dermatologists and researchers worry that the increased irritation and exfoliation caused by higher concentrations (above 10%) of AHAs may be too much for skin. Without more evidence showing a benefit from higher concentrations, I feel that you can achieve great results without any unwanted side effects. Further, the positive results women and men perceive with higher concentrations of AHAs may come from the swelling and edema they cause. That may diminish the appearance of wrinkles and make the skin feel smoother, but it is most likely not best for the long-term health of the skin due to the increased amount of constant irritation.

Polyhydroxy Acids
The search for an effective form of AHA or an extra ingredient that can enhance performance and reduce irritation has been a popular topic of discussion among cosmetics formulators. Gluconolactone is a type of polyhydroxy acid that NeoStrata believes serves both ends: It is supposed to be just as effective as AHAs but also less irritating.

Gluconolactone (PHA) is similar to AHAs. The significant difference between the two is that gluconolactone has a larger molecular structure, which limits its penetration into the skin, resulting in a reduction of irritating side effects in some skin types. So is gluconolactone better for your skin than AHAs? Research indicates that AHA and PHA perform identically with AHA having a slight edge for improving the appearance of skin and PHA having less risk of irritation (Source: Cutis, February 2003, (2 Supplemental), pages14-17).

Retinoids (Retin-A, Differin, and Tazorac)
Let me make it perfectly clear that retinoids are not exfoliants, though many people think that's what they do. Retinoids are a general term referring to a vast range of ingredients derived from vitamin A. Prescription-only, topically applied retinoids are significant for skin because they can positively affect the way cells are formed deep in the dermis.

If you have sun-damaged, dry, wrinkled, or acne-prone skin, you should become familiar with the names Retin-A, Renova, Differin, Avita, and Tazorac, which all contain different forms of retinoids. The active ingredient in Retin-A, Avita, and Renova is tretinoin, Differin uses adapalene, and Tazorac uses tazorotene. In fact, both Renova and Tazorac have been approved by the FDA for the treatment of wrinkles (Sources: Dermatologic Surgery, June 2004, pages 864-866; Archives of Dermatology, November 2002, pages 1486-1493; Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, October 2001, pages 613–618; and www.fda.gov).

Exfoliants such as AHAs and BHA primarily affect the surface of the skin (epidermis) or the lining of the pore by actually ungluing or dissolving layers of skin cells. In contrast, retinoids affects the lower layers of skin (dermis), where new skin cells are produced. Retinoids actually communicate with a skin cell as it is being formed, telling it to develop normally instead of developing as a sun-damaged or genetically malformed skin cell.

Why the confusion about the effect retinoids can have on the skin? Primarily it's due to the fact that products containing retinoids can cause irritation and inflammation, resulting in the skin becoming flaky and dry. This flaking and dryness is not exfoliation, nor is it a desirable or advantageous result. If retinoids cause your skin to be consistently dry and flaky, it is a problem and you should probably avoid products that contain it or reduce how often you use them.

Despite the valuable effect retinoids can have for skin, don't expect retinoids to erase wrinkles because they are not a wrinkle cure. However, if skin cells can be produced with a healthier form and shape, the skin's surface will have a smoother appearance, skin cells will do their job of turning over in a more normal fashion, the protective outer layer of skin will remain intact, enhancing the skin's healing response, and on and on. In essence, the skin will behave and look the way it did (to some extent) before it was damaged by the sun.

Regardless of these positive effects, retinoids will be useless, and the skin will be prone to more damage, if you do not wear a sunscreen as well. Not a wrinkle cream in the world, even one approved by the FDA, can have positive results if you don't use an effective sunscreen; without that, you are just adding to damage you already have accumulated.

What retinoids, AHA, and BHA products have in common is that once you stop using them, your skin will revert to the way it was before. These products will not produce permanent change. The smooth exterior lasts only as long as you use them. But used together long-term, they are a formidable weapon in the battle against wrinkles and blemishes.

Throughout the day my skin is very oily and it bothers me alot. I am constantly having to blot my face and it is a big confidence issue for me.

But then after I take a shower and wash my face my skin is still VERY shiny with no oil at all. How can I get that more matte look and also reduce the oil?

I have been on accutane.TWICE. After that i have tried all sort of other creams, benzoyl peroxide. And eating healthy. They just keep coming back. Please Help me with this, Thank you.

Hello forum!

I've been suffering from Acne since 2005. I've tried both Proactive and SkinID both of which worked for a while but then left my skin worse than it was before.

Stumbled upon acne.org a few years ago, did not start Dan's regimen until this week. Here's what I'm using...

Cetaphil Gentle Cleanser
2.5% BP
SPF15 Neutragena Moisturizer(DAY) + Cetaphil Moisturizer(EVENING)

I'm on my 4th day on the regimen, main difference I've noticed is how I am very very gentle with washing / applying BP & moisturizer (according to Dan's instructions). This leaves my skin feeling soft and smooth with almost no redness or irritation (probably also b/c of how gentle Cetaphil is).

B/c I've been using BP based products for years, I started with a high dose of BP (almost full finger length).

This has left my skin kind of flakey and rough where I apply the BP. Theres clearly a layer of dead skin where I apply the BP . My question is, should I exfoliate? Or will this layer of dead skin disappear on its own after a few more weeks of Dan's regimen? If I were to exfoliate, what is the most gentle way of doing it? Is there a speciic product thats ultra-gentle? A method?

Reason I'm asking is b/c I have very very sensitive skin and would hate to exfoliate and cause redness if I do not have to.
Thanks for your help

I've always been a fan of water and I usually choose water over any other kind of drink. But one bottle probably lasted me all day. I've heard around acne.org that drinking plenty of water helps a lot. I experimented today and I'm currently on my 6th bottle today.

Could anyone give me some information on why/how water helps acne?

Thanks everyone!

Well, of course I still look like my self, but my entire demeanor has changed don’t you think? I took the before picture about a year ago as motivation to finish my skin care line and get rid of my acne… And really, I owe my final results to Dan because I was initially afraid of incorporating benzoyl peroxide into my regime. I was afraid because when I was younger I had used a BP gel for spot treating my acne, which of course didn’t work very well. It left me extremely dry and looking ‘sun burned’. I also had the same results with Pro Active.

Previous to joining acne.org, I had finished a moisturizer containing Aloe Vera, Jojoba Oil, Extra Virgin Olive Oil, and Lavender Essential Oil; as well as a toner with Rose Water and Apple Cider Vinegar. Using these ingredients helped to heal a lot of my skin and cleared up about 50% of my acne. I still had regular breakouts by my ears, along my jaw line, and up my cheeks. I decided to try BP, and so I added 1oz of a 10% BP gel called ‘Zapzyt’ to 3oz ‘Fruit of the Earth’ aloe vera gel (the clear stuff) which gave me a 2.5% BP gel (everything cost like $9 at Wal-Mart with aloe gel to spare).

At this point in time I was using pure Olive Oil soap, my toner, my moisturizer, and then 2.5% BP gel (I preferred to use the BP last because I felt like I had better results by doing so). My face was about 90% clear at this point, and I never had any drying from the BP because of the Jojoba Oil and EVOO in my moisturizer.

That last 10% was driving me crazy! I was grateful for it, but I couldn’t figure out what was wrong with me! So I did a lot of research and came across information on the pH of skin and the importance of the acid mantle. I should have done all my research on acne.org though; it would have saved me A TON of time because it was really easy to find the same information when I was browsing around the message boards today

http://www.acne.org/messageboard/pH-import...-p-t144725.html

I decided to simply stop washing my face with any soap or cleanser, and began to gently wipe my skin with a wet warm washcloth at night. My skin cleared up completely within a week!

I wanted to find a way to remove makeup and came across the oil cleansing method

http://www.acne.org/messageboard/OIL-CLEAN...Hi-t141871.html

I created a creamy cleanser with 70% Sunflower Seed Oil and 30% Castor Oil. I also ended up adding 2.5% Benzoyl Peroxide and Tea Tree Oil to my moisturizer. Currently my regime consists of:

• Night-

-My cleanser when I wear makeup, otherwise I use it 2 or 3 x’s a week
-My toner
-My eye cream
-My moisturizer with 2.5% Benzoyl Peroxide
-Sometimes I like to use Grape Seed Oil; I feel that it helps to enhance my complexion

• Morning-

-My toner
-My eye cream
-My moisturizer with 2.5% Benzoyl Peroxide

I haven’t had a single zit in like a month and I’m sooo happy with my complexion! Sorry for tooting my own horn, but I am very proud of myself. Not very many people can say that they make every product that they use on their skin

In conclusion, what I found to be true about obtaining/maintaining healthy skin is that proper pH, proper moisture, and never removing precious sebum is KEY; as for acne, a little BP goes a long way… Take Dans’ advice. I’ve never tried his products, but they look really good, and I am sure that many people swear by the acne.org regime. THANK YOU DAN for the BP inspiration!

I hope that this information was helpful for others.

Hey there guys.

I've been suffering from folliculitis on the back of my head for quite a while now.

There are a lot of red pimples, some whiteheads and lots of inflammation. My father has that too but doesn't pay so much attention to it.

However, it bothers me a lot.
http://250kb.de/u/091102/j/01301c41.jpg

http://250kb.de/u/090407/j/c6b76a0b.jpg




The only thing that temporarely helped me a little bit was selenium sulfide shampoos (with tea tree oil addes). However, it never solved the problem.

a dermatologist now prescriped me minostad (minocylin), which is as far as i know used for severe acne which i don't really have. However, I'm a bit worried of the horror stories I've read after quitting the medication etc.

Any advice/experiences?

Ok, So, I just want to know if maybe I'm just being over-sensitive....I mean after all, my boyfriend has beautiful skin, I KNOW he doesn't understand what it's like, and he surely doesn't get why I would take Accutane again.

So, I have a bar of Neutrogena Transparent FACIAL bar for acne prone skin in the shower... (sometime a month or so ago when I gave up that anything topical would work, I purchased this just to use something simple with no acne meds in it). I know that bar soap is controversial for acne bc bacteria can get on the bar...so I always wash my hands before using it, and ALWAYS just rub it with an unused washcloth to get the soap. I'm a little psycho about stuff like that, but a lifetime of acne has done that to me!

I get in the shower this morning, and when I go to use it, notice that the bar is ALOT smaller. Then I see a dark HAIR hanging off the wrapper (I have it sitting in the wrapper so the bars under it don't dig through the soap). So then it pops into my head: My boyfriend uses bar soap...he has hair on his chest...as well as other places, and when he washes he literally takes the bar in hand and rubs it directly all over his body (AND places that exist in his underwear...).

I was MORTIFIED. He knew it my face soap, he was with me when I bought it!!!!

I'm extemely miffed bc #1, the soap costs like $5 for ONE bar, #2, this soap is made to be completely rinsable (not leave residue on your skin) so it dissolves REALLY easy. I have always been really careful to only rub it enough to get what I need bc otherwise, the dang soap will be gone after a week. The bar now looked about half the size it was the last time I saw it. #3, I am SO methodical about not getting bacteria on the soap, and the man literally used the whole bar to cleanse every inch of his body.

I called him and asked him if he had used it. He said yes....of course. I am SO mad. He said he would buy me another one, I said, "Please do."

So am I freaking out over nothing?? Of course I tend to be sensitive about skin issues... But this comes on top of the fact that I've had to tell him a MILLION times not to touch my face, not to mash my hair onto my face, and not to use my pillow if he didn't wash his hair (or maybe just not use my pillow at all!!!)

Anyway....ugh. Tell me what you think...

hey all

i have relatively clear skin. a pimple here and there and a breakout now and then depending on what i eat

but this has been on my face for like, 3 weeks. what is this? blemishes? cysts? what? and does anyone have any idea what to do about it? ive never had something on my face for this long. it really wont go away; at night time though its a lot less visible for some reason

i drink a lot of water
i stay away from fried and greasy foods
ive been using biodermazen to great success for the past few months

[img]http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/6082/1120090048.jpg[/img]

i am a 16 year old male. i always had very little acne. i never had any acne on my face except on my chin and a little bit on my forehead. i have been using this treatment for about 6 weeks and only apply the bp to the problem areas. my problem now is that after i apply the moisturizer, my chin starts to have a burning feeling. i apply moisturizer all over my face, but it only my chin burns. i started to develop many little bumps on my chin. am i doing something wrong or am i just allergic to the moisturizer? i always wait about 10 after applying the bp to apply moisturizer.

It has been 3.5 weeks for me on tazorac and I have honestly not seen a significant difference in my skin. .What I HAVE been noticing is if I feel my skin, along with my regular moderate acne, I have pimples under the skin that are painful to the touch. They usually come to the surface after atleast a week and a half, but has anyone else experienced this on taz? Whats going on? Will my skin EVER get better?

Hi all

I take Lithium Carbonate and although I rarely have more than 4 or 5 spots on my face at once, the ones I have are large and painful.

One started forming on my cheek last night and by this morning was a huge painful spot. It really hurt all day and then this afternoon I (probably stupidly) I tried to pull the hair out of the middle of it, thinking it might dislodge the puss. I 'nicked' the top of the spot and a lot of puss and then blood came out.

I'm POSITIVE that if I had left it, it would have lingered for weeks, but I managed to drain it all and it's gone almost flat again.

Does this mean it won't scar? Because i've dealt with it early before the inflammation got a hold?

I've been on 800mg lithium carbonate for 10 years and still have the acne Will it ever go?

Hi,

My acne hasn't been too bad as of late. Still a bit red and I'll get whiteheads a couple of times a week. But it isn't so bad. Anyways, recently, the skin around my chin has started to peel a bit. It comes off in rolls. Thats the only way I can really think of describing it. If I put my hand over the peeling skin and just stroke my chin, the skin'll just peel off and roll up like you're rolling a piece of clay into a noodle. Hopefully that gives you some idea of what's happening. It doesn't hurt and is just very thin thin pieces of skin but I can see that it's red underneath. I've been moisturizing a lot.

Has anyone else experienced this before? What have you done? It just started recently when it started getting colder around here (Seattle). I put a humidifier in my room to help deal with the dry air and it started around then. Could it have anything to do with that? HELP!

Thank you!

Edit: I'm also taking Mincocycline, drinking ACV, applying a 2.5% BP Wash on my face in the morning, and Tazorac at night before bed.

I know I know back to basics.


But the other day whilst looking into the bathroom mirror thinking probably like most ''why i dont i have spots on forehead/chin/nose etc etc'' the non acne prone places i harshly scrub everyday


I noticed alot of my spots were red and slighty stingy.What more to do worse was annoy them even more but RUBBING onto them over and over.

So i decided to slightly change my moring regimen about a bit



Since 3 Days ago

Ive been showering first - Any temp

Then after shower using a foaming Tree Tea and witch hazel foam i always use.


I APPROACHED MY SKIN AS GENTLE AS POSSIBLE

i mean just nicely going in circle motions trying not to rough up the skin at all.

BECAUSE : scrubbing too hard with these harsh chemicals leads to IRRATATED/RED/

this will leave your skin MORE DRY which will lead your skin into producing MORE OIL = thats right





So basically i approached my skin completly differently being as gentle as possible.

SO

1. GENTLE ON YOUR SKIN WHEN WASHING - GLIDE OVER THE SKIN

- DONT THINK MORE RUBBING = MORE CLEAN

2. WASH WITH WARM - NOT EXTREMELY ANNOYING HOT

3. APPLY A NICE SMOOTH MOIUSTERIZUER*
(this can help you keep your oil levels down dramatically)




i know this seems extremely basic but when your away to wash your face take into consideration how harsh of a scrub you are doing.

ive noticed a hugh difference

- skin not so red/ spots not red

- skin not so dry

- have went from 60 to 85 percent clearer


Every once a week i shall exfoliate with a tre tea oil scrub to get rid of dead cells.



SEE IF YOU GUYS SEE A DIFFERENCE AND POST

Discuss?

I smoked weed once and it made me breakout for about a week and now its stopped thank god. I have gotten my hands on a weed brownie and i would like to know if that will also make me breakout. More specificly, is it the thc that makes me break out or the actual act of smoking itself?

Hey guys
I was just wondering if having a fringe (or bangs i think there called in the usa) would make my acne worse? or is it a myth that hair in your face makes skin worse?

should i be using an oil free moisturiser rather than one with oils in it on my spot prone face??

i popped my pimples n now it looks like i got in a fight n lost.

Allright so i have been on the Regimen for a little over 5 weeks now. I use cleanser, BP, Moisturizer, AHA when i wake up and before i go to sleep. And everything was going allright up until about two days ago. All of the sudden my forehead and lower cheek and jaw line area have broke out really bad for some reason. I'm not sure if it's my skin purging itself or what but i haven't had a breakout like this in awhile. Any ideas?

This is what finally helped me. For the first time in 6 years I have no Acne. I don't wash my face in the morning.

[AT NIGHT]
-Wash face with Olay Dual Action Cleanser+Pore Srub
-Neutrogena Alcohol Free Toner
-Then I put on Aczone Medication.
-10 Min. later I put on Tazorac Medication.
-Another 10 Min. Later I put on dabs of Clearasil 10% Benzoyl Peroxide.

The Aczone and Tazorac worked OK for me but after I added the Benzoyl Peroxide to my regimen it really helped.

I went through years of acne and many visits to the dermatologist. My skin has finally cleared up. I have noticed that if I forget to use the Benzoyl Peroxide a small pimple will pop out. For now I need to make sure to keep using it. Maybe in the future I won't have to keep using medication, hopefully.

I woke up a few days ago with a breakout around my nose, and just below it. Yesterday it got worse, so many white heads around my mouth. Now today it's not worse than yesterday but it's not better. I don't want to go to the dermatologist or doctor because I dont want anyone to look at me. I'm in my room alone and have been for the past 24 hours. Help me. I broke my phone over the weekend so I can't even call to make a doc's appt. And I don't want my roommates to see me like this. FUCK THIS

I have tried antibiotics several times. They clear me up great at first, but then after a while they don't help at all. Has this happen with you guys and what do we make of this? I have mild acne btw.

I recently started using Burt's Bees Orange Essence Facial cleanser when i learned about oil cleansing method, so I'm trying to use more natural oils. The facial cleanser contains a few oils in it and it made my face very clear and not dry at all. I also needed a moisturizer and I bought virgin coconut oil and some sweet almond oil. Yesterday I used the coconut oil for the first time and I felt like it made my acne worse, like a ton of blackheads. I feel like it healed some previous acne but my face felt kinda oily all day. Maybe I used too much? Was I supposed to wash it off? I really want this to work , do I just have to wait longer? Did anyone have similar results?
And has anyone used the sweet almond oil for acne? How do you use it?

anyone use 5% or even 10% glycolic acid? I purchased some of the 5% glycolic cream today because my once non inflammed acne became a bit out of control these past two months and I was looking for something to clear it fast.
also, any side effects like drying or redness??

Hi people, ive only just joined this website so im pretty new to it all....

Just wanted some advice, i have mild to moderate acne, im in my third week of taking accutane (30mg per day), and im unsure about what cleanser and moisturiser to be using on my face. My skin doesnt feel that dry, i expected it to be mega dry but it isent, just slightly drier than usual and feels less oily. I started using Cetaphil, but noticed i was getting blackheads on my nose which i didnt have before. Is this to do with the cleanser or is this what happens when you take accutane??? im confused Anyone had the same experience?? What products should i be using?? Im thinking i dont wanna use anything too moisturising becuase it might break me out. I dont know. Please help!!!!

Just come off accutane and it worked, acne has gone, however the debate is still out on if my skin has recovered properly, the thing is, I think my skin may be going greasy again, which is a bad sign.

Does anyone know what normal skin feels like?, you know skin that's not dry and not greasy.

I was just wondering, does facial skin always have a slightly greasy feel to it?

It's been like 3 years since I did'nt have acne, and this is my first time without it.

Just wondering, Thanks guys.