Many thanks to Mumblesorusjen for posting this article in the Acne Research forum .... and to Lorrie for suggesting that we spread the news.



The pH (power of hydrogen) factor is a term most of us have heard but which few understand the significance of as it relates to skin care. Calculated on a scale of one to 14, pH refers to the levels of acid or alkaline in a substance. Below seven is acidic, above is alkaline, and seven – the approximate optimum level for the body – is neutral. However, skin has a different pH and to avoid and treat dry skin, it is important to choose skin care treatment products that have the proper pH balance.

The pH of normal skin ranges from 4 to 6.5, which is slightly acidic. This acidic environment is referred to as the skin’s ‘acid mantle’. It contains a number of different acids including lactic acid, amino acids and free fatty acids. One of the major functions of the acid mantle is to protect the skin and body from the absorption of bacteria. As bacteria cannot survive in an acidic environment, maintaining the correct level of acidity is vital.

If the acid mantle is disrupted, the skin also becomes more susceptible to damage. Although acid and alkaline are on opposite ends of the spectrum, either disrupts the pH and either can cause dry skin.

Alkaline stronger than pH 8 is very irritating to the skin and, unfortunately, the majority of skin care treatment products and household cleansers are far too alkaline. Most skin care soaps have a pH factor of 9 to 11 and many household cleansers range between 10 and 12. Oven cleaners come in around pH 13, which is why using rubber gloves is recommended.

When the acid mantle is disrupted by using skin care treatment that is too alkaline, it takes about 14 hours for the skin to get back to normal. However, by that time we’ve usually used the products again so, in fact, the damage never really gets repaired. The result is apparently permanent dry skin.

Fortunately, the condition is not actually permanent and you can start improving it by reading product labels. Often a label will state the pH or describe the product as ‘pH balanced’ which is supposed to denote a pH that approximates that of the skin – although, to be certain, I would look for the number, not just the ‘pH balanced’ designation. Look for skin care products that are between pH 4 and 7 and you will be on your way to preventing and treating dry skin.


[article from http://www.theopenpress.com/index.php?a=press&id=16033]

Part I: Avoiding Harmful Products


When Buying Products

Don't Buy Cleansers That:

1. Contain harsh surfectants like sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate.

2. Are in bar form. These contain harsh cleansing agents like sodium cocoate, and the ingredients that keep them in bar form can be absorbed into the skin to clog pores. Also, many bar soaps have alkaline pH levels, which actually encourages bacterial growth.

3. Are daily scrubs containing uneven particles like walnut . These can tear at the skin and cause irritation.
Look for scrubs with smooth, round, bead-like particles.

4. Contain waxy, pore-clogging thickeners. Products in cream form tend to have these.

5. Contain animal oils*. Animal oils resemble human sebum and can clog pores similarly.

4. Give a "tingly" or "cooling" feeling. That feeling is caused by skin irritants like menthol and camphor.

5. Are medicated. If the medication contains a chemical exfoliant like salicylic acid, the cleanser is almost certain to have too high of a pH (over 4) to allow it to act as an exfoliant. Chances are that the majority of any medictation used in a cleanser will be washed away before having any real effect. If you let a medicated cleanser (either one containing a chemical exfoliant or one containing benzoyl peroxide) sit on the skin in hopes of giving the medications time to penetrate, than chances are you'll also be allowing the cleansing agents time to irritate the skin.

* Emu oil for some reason seems to be an exception according to users of this site.

Don't Buy Toners or Astringents That:

1. Contain drying alcohols, witch hazel, peppermint, or other skin irritants.

2. Contain animal oils. (See "Don't Buy Cleansers That:")

3. Contain rice or corn ingredients, as these can encourage bacterial growth.

Don't Buy Salicylic Acid Products* That:

1. Contain skin irritants like drying alcohols, witch hazel, peppermint, or other skin irritants.

2. Have a pH higher than 4 or else the salicylic acid will not be an effective exfoliant. A good idea of a product's pH can be obtained with pH indicator strips.

3. Contain rice or corn ingredients (See "Don't Buy Toners or Astringents That:")

* Most salicylic acid products are not pH correct, contain irritants, or both.

Don't Buy Benzoyl Peroxide Products:

1. That contain skin irritants.

2. To use in conjunction with prescription retinoids (with the exception of adapalene which is used in Differin). Benzoyl peroxide renders most retinoids unstable and should be applied only in the morning if a prescription retinoid is being used at night.

3. Contain animal oils. (See Don't Buy Cleansers That:")

Don't Buy Tea Tree Oil Products That:

1. Contain skin irritants.

2. Have less than a 5% concentration of tea tree oil, or more than a 15% concentration. Too little tea tree oil is likely to be ineffective, and too much may be irritating. You can, however, buy pure tea tree oil and dilute it, so long as you aim for the right concentration.

3. Contain animal oils. (See Don't Buy Cleansers That:")

Don't Buy Moisturizers That:

1. Are in cream form. (See "Don't Buy Cleansers That:")

2. Contain animal oils. (See "Don't Buy Cleansers That:")

3. Contain rice or corn ingredients. (See "Don't Buy Toners or Astringents That:")

4. Contain skin irritants.

Don't Buy Sunscreens That:

1. Are in cream form. (See "Don't Buy Cleansers That:")

2. Contain animal oils. (See "Don't Buy Cleansers That:")

3. Contain rice or corn ingredients. (See "Don't Buy Toners or Astringents That:")

4. Do not contain avobenzone, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, mexoryl sx, or tinosorb; the ingredients recognized by the FDA to provide adequate UVA protection.

5. Do not have an SPF of 15 or higher.

6. Contain skin irritants.

In General

1. Don't use products that contain skin irritants. Skin irritants prematurely kill skin cells, littering the skin with more dead skin cells than it can naturally slough off, thus creating a greater risk of clogged pores. Skin irritants also interfere with the skin's healing process, which can result in an increase in bacteria.

Some common skin irritants are:

Alcohols. Ethanol (grain alcohol), denatured alcohol, ethyl alcohol, methanol, benzyl alcohol, isopropyl, and SD alcohol should be avoided. (Exceptions: Ingredients like cetyl alcohol or stearyl alcohol are fatty alcohols. Some alcohols like SD alcohols can be used in small amounts. An ingredient is in a small amount if it appears at the end of an ingredients list).
Ammonia
Arnica
Balm mint
Balsam
Bentonite (can be used in the occasional clay mask, but avoid frequent use or formulations which contain other "actives")
Benzalkonium chloride (if it is one of the main ingredients)
Benzyl Alcohol (if it is one of the main ingredients)
Bergamot
Camphor
Cinnamon
Citrus juices and oils
Clove
Clover blossom
Coriander
Cornstarch
Essential Oils
Eucalyptus
Eugenol
Fennel
Fennel oil
Feverfew
Fir needle
Fragrance (may be listed as "Parfum")
Geranium
Ginger
Grapefruit
Horsetail
Jasmine
Lavender
Lemon
Lemongrass
Lime
Linalool
Marjoram
Melissa (lemon balm)
Menthol, Menthyl Acetate, and Menthyl PCA
Mint
Oak bark
Orange
Oregano
Papaya
Peppermint
Phenol
Rose
Sandalwood oil
Sodium C14-16 olefin sulfate
Sodium lauryl sulfate
TEA-lauryl sulfate
Thyme
Wintergreen
Witch hazel
Ylang-ylang

2. Don't base your use of a product on whether or not it says "non-comedogenic," "oil-free," "hypo-allergenic," "dermatologically tested," and similar terms. These are flashy marketing terms that have no regulations, therefore, they can mean anything. As mentioned earlier, products with waxy thickeners and animal oils (not plant oils) are most likely to clog pores. Mineral sunscreen ingredients like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide can clog pores, though synthetic sunscreens like avobenzone can irritate the skin of certain people and also trigger breakouts. Everyone is different and will be sensitive to different ingredients, so there is no real way of knowing what will or will not clog pores, just what may clog pores. One other thing- acne can take two weeks to form, so if you break out right after starting a product, don't assume that product was the culprit.

3. Don't use specialty products (chemical exfoliants, moisturizers, etc...) that are in jar packaging to minimize air exposure. Oxygen can render certain ingredients unstable. Also, with jar packaging, there is a concern for product contamination. Sunlight can also render certain ingredients unstable, so if you buy a product in clear packaging, be sure to store it in a dark space (such as a medicine cabinet or drawer).

4. Don't assume that the stronger a product (i.e. the higher the concentration of an active ingredient), the more effective it will be. Using a product that is too strong for you may cause irritation that can worsen acne. What is a good strength varies by person.

5. Don't assume that naturally-occurring ingredients are better for your skin. As can be seen by the list of common skin irritants above, there are plenty of ingredients both man-made and naturally-occurring that can be irritating to the skin.

6. Don't touch your face if you can avoid it so as to prevent the spread of contaminants.

7. If you have trouble with inflammatory acne, change your bedding often (once a week), and keep anything that touches your face frequently (like a phone or washcloth) clean and disinfected to prevent the spread of contaminants.

8. Don't use makeup testers on your face to prevent the risk of contamination.

9. Don't apply your moisturizer over areas of your face that are not dry. Applying moisturizer where it is not needed can increase the risk of clogged pores by mixing with excess sebum and "gluing" dead skin cells to the skin's surface.

10. Don't tan. Tanning only temporarily masks acne, damaging the skin in the process, which can actually lead to a worsening of acne. Even if tanning did help, it's not worth the risk of skin cancer, premature aging, cataracts, cellulite, and rosacea associated with unprotected sun exposure.

11. Don't steam the skin or rinse with hot water as this can cause irritation and capillaries to surface. It is best to wash with luke-warm water.

12. Don't give up on a new regimen. You need at the very minimum one month and preferrably two to see results. When using prescription retinoids, you need at least three months.

13. Don't over-scrub the skin as this can cause irritations. It is best to use gentle, circular motions. When drying the face, pat the skin dry as opposed to rubbing it dry.

14. Avoid doing anything to aggravate a pimple. It may be beneficial to pop one provided the pimple is ready to pop, but only apply light pressure. Never squeeze, scratch, or pick at it. If light pressure does not release the contents of a pimple, you will likely worsen it should you increase that pressure.

15. Don't use more than one method of exfoliation at once. For example, don't use a scrub followed by a salicylic acid product, or a salicylic acid product followed by an alpha hydroxy acid product. You risk over-irritating the skin.

16. Don't generously apply products (with the exception of sunscreen, which should be generously applied). Usually only a dime-sized amount / thinly applied layer is all that's needed for the entire face. Over-applying products can be harmful to the skin.

17. Be happy! Who knows, your skin might even get clearer as a result. If not, it's better to have acne and be happy than it is to have acne and wallow in gloom.


__________________________________________________________________________



Part II: Building a Regimen

Here are some products you could use to help build your own customized regimen, which are also listed in the responses below.
I recommend building a basic regimen that includes at the minimum these steps:

1) Cleansing with Lukewarm Water
2) Exfoliating
3) Disinfecting (If You Have Inflammatory Acne)
4) Moisturizing Dry Areas Only (Nighttime)
5) Applying Sunscreen to All Exposed Areas of Skin (Daytime)

You can also include other steps in your regimen, like the application of toners which don't contain chemical exfoliants (not that toners containing chemical exfoliants shouldn't be used if that's your method of exfoliation) or of retinoids. Also, you don't have to apply all these products at the same time; for example, you can exfoliate as often as twice a day or as little as once every other day. You should, however, cleanse twice daily.

Something I want to make very clear is that I am not advertising a cure for acne. The above mentioned steps follow skin care basics and are beneficial to most people. Subsequently, using a regimen following these steps may result in clear skin, but it may make absolutely no change whatsoever. If you use the wrong products or can't tolerate certain steps like exfoliation or certain types of ingredients like benzoyl peroxide, it might even make your skin worse. If you're looking for a starting point to treating acne or have been following a damaging skin care routine and want to stop, I definately recommend giving such a regimen a chance, but I don't want to give anyone false hope that their acne will disappear from following it. You may have a stubborn case of acne that is beyond the help of over-the-counter treatments, in which case I advise you seek a dermatologist's help. I also want to stress that the treatments I recommend below are not the only decently formulated products out there (though the salicylic acid products I listed are the only ones I know of that are both pH correct and gentle).


Some cleansers you may want to consider are:

Clinique Liquid Facial Soap Mild Formula
Eucerin Baby Aquaphor Gentle Wash
Eucerin Redness Relief Cleansing Gel
Paula's Choice (any cleanser)
Purpose Gentle Cleansing Wash


Some manual scrubs you may want to consider as exfoliants are:

Essential Nutrients Daily Exfoliating Cleanser with Soft Massage Beads
Nivea for Men Energizing Face Scrub (women can use this too)


Some toners (not containing chemical exfoliants) you may want to consider are:

Biotherm Biosensitive Soothing Refreshing Spring Mist
Clinique Mild Clarifying Lotion*
Derma E Pycnogenol Facial Toner, Fragrance Free
Nivea Visage Moisturizing Toner
Paula's Choice Toners

*This contains about a 0.5% concentration of salicylic acid at a pH of around 4, making it minimally effective for exfoliation, though you probably won't notice a significant difference in your skin due

Some salicylic acid products you may want to consider as exfoliants are:

Bare Vitamins Skin Rever-Upper (if it really has a pH of 3.8, as the company claimed in an e-mail)
Neutrogena Rapid Clear Acne Defense Face Lotion
Olay Total Effects Anti-Aging Anti-Blemish Daily Moisturizer
Paula's Choice 1% or 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid products*
Serious Skin Care Clarifying Treatment

*Paula's Choice makes by far the best salicylic acid products


Some benzoyl peroxide products you may want to consider as disinfectants are:

Dan's Clear Skin Regimen Gel (2.5%)
Jan Marini Skin Research Benzoyl Peroxide (2.5%)
Mary Kay Acne Treatment Gel (5%)
Oxy Balance, Sensitive Skin Acne Treatment, Vanishing Formula (5%)
Paula's Choice Blemish Fighting Solutions (2.5% or 5%)
Persa-Gel 10, Maximum Strength (10%)
Zapzyt 10% Benzoyl Peroxide

Some tea tree oil products you may want to consider as disinfectants are:

Derma E Tea Tree and Antiseptic Cream* (5%)
Desert Essence 100% Pure Australian Tea Tree Oil (diluted; aim for between a 5 and 15% concentration in your mixture)

*This product is in jar packaging, so the vitamin E and other antioxidants won't be stable, but the tea tree oil should work. It is also in cream form, which users may want to be wary of.

Some over-the-counter retinol* products you may want to consider are:

Diacneal with 6.4% Glycolic Acid
Green Cream
Jan Marini Factor-A Lotion
Makeup Artist's Choice Retinol Serum (which comes in clear packaging, so store it in a dark place)

*Products containing retinol do not necessarily produce similar results to prescription retinoid products

Some moisturizers you may want to consider are:

Dove Sensitive Essentials Daytime Lotion (no SPF)
Green Canyon Spa Skin Barrier Serum
Malibu Hemp Moisturizer Body Lotion for Dry Skin
Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Moisture Gel
Zia Natural Skincare Herbal Moisture Gel

Some sunscreens you may want to consider are:

Clinique Super City Block SPF 25 Oil-Free Daily Face Protector
Jan Marini Antioxidant Daily Face Protector
M.A.C. Daily SPF 15 Light Moisture
Neutrogena Active Breathable Sunblocks
Neutrogena Ultra-Sheer Dry-Touch Sunsblocks
Proactiv Solution Oil-Free Moisturizer with SPF 15

There is an esthetician in the San Francisco Bay Area who has a very high success rate with patients who come in for acne. She and her staff are passionate in this area. In particular, I'm hoping she'll fill in where I leave off when it comes to non-inflammatory acne (the stuff that stays under the skin and doesn't get red). Please post your questions for her by replying to this thread and I will ask her your questions in our interview. Questions on blackheads are welcome as well.

Thanks!

Dan

Since so many people including myself have questions about BHA's and AHA's, I thought I would post this for everyone to read and learn about them. I got it from the Paula's Choice website so I have to give her props for educating us. It's long but very imformative. Read and learn:

Understanding Exfoliants

AHAs vs. BHA
There are two primary topical ways to exfoliate skin, either with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), or with beta hydroxy acid (BHA). There is only one BHA (beta hydroxy acid) and that is salicylic acid, but there are a variety of AHAs. The five major types of AHAs that show up in skin-care products are glycolic, lactic, malic, citric, and tartaric acids. Of these, the most commonly used and most effective AHAs are glycolic and lactic acids. Both of these have the ability to penetrate the skin, plus they have the most accumulated research on their functionality and benefit for skin.

What glycolic, lactic, and salicylic acids both do is "unglue" the outer layer of dead skin cells, allowing healthier cells to come to the surface. Removing this dead layer can improve skin texture and color, unclog pores, and allow moisturizers to be better absorbed by the skin. Both AHAs and BHA affect the top layers of skin, and they help to improve the appearance of sun-damaged, dry, and/or thickened skin. Sun damage in particular causes the top layer of skin to become thicker, creating a dull, rough appearance on the surface of skin (Sources: Archives of Dermatologic Research, June 1997, pages 404–409; Dermatologic Surgery, May 1998, pages 573–577). There is even research showing AHAs can generate collagen production (Sources: Experimental Dermatology, April 2003, (Supplemental), pages 57-63 and Dermatologic Surgery, May 2001, page 429.)

Because AHAs and BHA work through chemical processes, they can penetrate the skin and produce better results than cosmetic scrubs, which work only on the exposed surface of the skin. And, there is no risk that AHAs and BHA will cause you to lose too much skin. Technically, there is a drop-off rate, meaning the AHA and BHA will exfoliate just the dead or damaged surface skin and leave the healthy skin alone. This is the main reason why you will see a drop-off in performance when using an AHA or BHA product. The dramatic results in the beginning of usage (when the thickened, discolored layers of skin are being removed) seem much more impressive than the results from continued use. This is to be expected, and it is important to note that continued use of an AHA or BHA product is required in order to maintain skin’s smooth, even-toned, healthy appearance.

The primary difference between AHAs and BHA is that AHAs are water-soluble, while BHA is lipid-(oil) soluble. This unique property of BHA allows it to penetrate the oil in the pores and exfoliate accumulated skin cells inside the oil gland that can clog pores. BHA is best used where blackheads and blemishes are the issue, and AHAs are best for sun-damaged, thickened, dry skin where breakouts are not a problem (Source: Global Cosmetic Industry, November 2000, pages 56–57).

pH Sensitive AHA and BHA
AHAs work best at concentrations of 5% to 10% with a pH of 3 to 4, and their effectiveness diminishes as you go above a pH of 4.5. BHA works best at concentrations of between 1% and 2%, and at an optimal pH of 3, diminishing in effectiveness as you go past a pH of 4. Both AHAs and BHA lose their effectiveness as a product's pH goes up or the concentration of the ingredient goes down. (Source: Cosmetic Dermatology, October 2001, pages 15–18).

If the cosmetics industry isn't forthcoming about the necessary percentages and pH for a BHA or AHA product (and most companies aren't), how can you tell if it provides decent or effective exfoliation? Consumers can't, not unless they are shopping with pH measuring paper in hand, which is exactly how I rate exfoliants when I review products for my book, newsletter, or Beauty Bulletin. As a general rule, it is best if the AHA ingredient is either second or third on the ingredient list, making it likely that the product contains a 5% or higher concentration of AHAs. For salicylic acid, because only a 2% to 0.5% concentration is required, it is fine if this ingredient is located toward the middle or end of the ingredient list.

It is interesting to not that at any pH, AHAs provide the added benefit of helping to keep water in the skin at the same time that exfoliation is taking place. This is due to the way they affect skin cells adding increased protection. AHAs can also increase the production of ceramides in the skin, which help keep it moist and healthy (Source: Dry Skin and Moisturizers Chemistry and Function, edited by Marie Loden and Howard Maibach, 2000, page 237).

While BHA penetrates deeper into the pore than AHAs, it can be less irritating than AHAs. This is due to BHA's relation to aspirin. Aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid) has anti-inflammatory properties and BHA, salicylic acid, is derived from aspirin and on the skin, retains some of its same anti-inflammatory benefits.

AHA and BHA products can definitely smooth the skin, fade signs of sun damage, correct uneven skin tone, improve texture, unclog pores, and give the appearance of plumper, firmer skin (because more healthy skin cells are now on the surface). Unfortunately, they have no residual effect—when you stop using them the skin will go back to the condition it was in before you started.

AHA Confusion
There are AHA sound-alikes, including sugarcane extract, mixed fruit acids, fruit extracts, milk extract, and citrus extract. You may think you've purchased a more natural AHA product when you see these less technical names, but that isn't the case. Although glycolic acid is derived from sugarcane, and lactic acid from milk, that doesn't mean sugarcane extract or milk extract are the same as glycolic or lactic acid, yet they do share these acid’s water-binding properties, in much the same way as salicylic acid share’s the anti-inflammatory properties of its relation, aspirin.

Unless you see glycolic, lactic, malic, tartaric, or citric acid on the ingredient list, it's all too vague and meaningless, making it impossible to determine what you are really buying. My advice is to be very suspicious of any product that claims an association with AHAs but contains a variety of sound-alike ingredients.

BHA Confusion
Products boasting that they contain a natural source of salicylic acid (BHA) usually add willow bark. Willow bark contains salicin, a substance that when taken orally is converted by the digestion process to salicylic acid. That means the process of converting willow bark to salicylic acid requires the presence of enzymes to turn the salicin into salicylic acid. The likelihood that willow bark in the tiny amount used in cosmetics can mimic the effectiveness of salicylic acid on skin is in all likelihood impossible. However, willow bark may indeed have some anti-inflammatory benefits for skin because, in this form, it appears to retain more of its aspirin-like composition.

What About Higher Concentrations of AHAs?
Removing the outer layer of skin can be taken too far, and many cosmetic dermatologists and researchers worry that the increased irritation and exfoliation caused by higher concentrations (above 10%) of AHAs may be too much for skin. Without more evidence showing a benefit from higher concentrations, I feel that you can achieve great results without any unwanted side effects. Further, the positive results women and men perceive with higher concentrations of AHAs may come from the swelling and edema they cause. That may diminish the appearance of wrinkles and make the skin feel smoother, but it is most likely not best for the long-term health of the skin due to the increased amount of constant irritation.

Polyhydroxy Acids
The search for an effective form of AHA or an extra ingredient that can enhance performance and reduce irritation has been a popular topic of discussion among cosmetics formulators. Gluconolactone is a type of polyhydroxy acid that NeoStrata believes serves both ends: It is supposed to be just as effective as AHAs but also less irritating.

Gluconolactone (PHA) is similar to AHAs. The significant difference between the two is that gluconolactone has a larger molecular structure, which limits its penetration into the skin, resulting in a reduction of irritating side effects in some skin types. So is gluconolactone better for your skin than AHAs? Research indicates that AHA and PHA perform identically with AHA having a slight edge for improving the appearance of skin and PHA having less risk of irritation (Source: Cutis, February 2003, (2 Supplemental), pages14-17).

Retinoids (Retin-A, Differin, and Tazorac)
Let me make it perfectly clear that retinoids are not exfoliants, though many people think that's what they do. Retinoids are a general term referring to a vast range of ingredients derived from vitamin A. Prescription-only, topically applied retinoids are significant for skin because they can positively affect the way cells are formed deep in the dermis.

If you have sun-damaged, dry, wrinkled, or acne-prone skin, you should become familiar with the names Retin-A, Renova, Differin, Avita, and Tazorac, which all contain different forms of retinoids. The active ingredient in Retin-A, Avita, and Renova is tretinoin, Differin uses adapalene, and Tazorac uses tazorotene. In fact, both Renova and Tazorac have been approved by the FDA for the treatment of wrinkles (Sources: Dermatologic Surgery, June 2004, pages 864-866; Archives of Dermatology, November 2002, pages 1486-1493; Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, October 2001, pages 613–618; and www.fda.gov).

Exfoliants such as AHAs and BHA primarily affect the surface of the skin (epidermis) or the lining of the pore by actually ungluing or dissolving layers of skin cells. In contrast, retinoids affects the lower layers of skin (dermis), where new skin cells are produced. Retinoids actually communicate with a skin cell as it is being formed, telling it to develop normally instead of developing as a sun-damaged or genetically malformed skin cell.

Why the confusion about the effect retinoids can have on the skin? Primarily it's due to the fact that products containing retinoids can cause irritation and inflammation, resulting in the skin becoming flaky and dry. This flaking and dryness is not exfoliation, nor is it a desirable or advantageous result. If retinoids cause your skin to be consistently dry and flaky, it is a problem and you should probably avoid products that contain it or reduce how often you use them.

Despite the valuable effect retinoids can have for skin, don't expect retinoids to erase wrinkles because they are not a wrinkle cure. However, if skin cells can be produced with a healthier form and shape, the skin's surface will have a smoother appearance, skin cells will do their job of turning over in a more normal fashion, the protective outer layer of skin will remain intact, enhancing the skin's healing response, and on and on. In essence, the skin will behave and look the way it did (to some extent) before it was damaged by the sun.

Regardless of these positive effects, retinoids will be useless, and the skin will be prone to more damage, if you do not wear a sunscreen as well. Not a wrinkle cream in the world, even one approved by the FDA, can have positive results if you don't use an effective sunscreen; without that, you are just adding to damage you already have accumulated.

What retinoids, AHA, and BHA products have in common is that once you stop using them, your skin will revert to the way it was before. These products will not produce permanent change. The smooth exterior lasts only as long as you use them. But used together long-term, they are a formidable weapon in the battle against wrinkles and blemishes.

hey, i have hair thats covering my forhead but 4 the past week ive been keeping my hair up and it hasnt been touching my forhead at all. but it doesnt look like its getting better. i need help heres my regimen:
clearsil oil free cleanser
proactiv toner
2%bha
2.5% bp maybe i should use 10%
sunscreen or moisturizer
im using this regimen because i have mostly non-inflamed acne with a cuple inflamed pimples.

Hey guys and girls i am really in need of some help. Over the last 3 months my acne has gotten progressively worse and wont stop at anything. I've tried pro activ and tried Doryx and some other meds to no avail. I'm booked in to the derm in 2 weeks and I'm worried that the derm won't be able to help me. I won't ask girls because i think i look hideous and i don't like people taking photos of me because the camera just outlines redness all over my face!

This is what i am looking like now and im starting to get blackheads on my shoulders and chin more... Please help me someone? Should i try ACV or something??? I think my main problem is my body is very hormonal at this point of my life turning 16 in 2 months... And i have oily scene and the acne genes from my dads side!

http://img21.imageshack.us/i/04072009351.jpg/

http://img21.imageshack.us/i/tmp1112b.jpg/

how many years have u had acne and when was it the worst

Okay now i know i don't have the worse case of acne. Believe me I know. Back when I was 15 my entire forehead didn't have one spot where it wasn't covered in a lovely red pussy zit, thank god for bangs. So really I know this isn't the worse case. HOWEVER after being clear for a year this BITES. I thought I was done, damn proactiv and false hopes.

So now you can see I have little bumps on my upper lip, chin, and forhead (although you cant really see with forehead with camera) and couple inlfamed on forehead.

Now this past year sure I had these bumps on my chin and upper lip, but not like this. and my forehead was CLEAR ALL FLIPPIN YEAR. So this a shock for me.

Now I have begun and old habit of picking, which you can probably tell from the swollen red lump near my lip (CLUSTER OF BUMPS).

Are these bumps whiteheads? Or non0inflamed, i don't get the difference? Now they have been these past few months CLUMPING AND CLUSTERING RIGHT NEXT TO EACH OTHER making bumps on my chin. Can these turn into cysts? My camera didn't pick up the few that look like they are UNDER my skin.


So I went to the derm and she prescribed Ziana to use at night after a gentle cleanser. My question is what should I use for the morning. Apparently I hear BP can't help with bumps, only inflamed (which I only get on my forehead really now). I've been using proactiv in the morning and the ziana at night for the past 3 days. So does anyone have suggestions? Is paulas choice any good?



I know these may not seem like a big deal to people. But I have had acne for five-six years now, and I am paranoid and a bit OCD I'll friggin admit it. Just need to know how anyone cured this type of acne. It just seems like it will never go away.

I have had enough of the spots that are covering my chin (white heads and very red bumps) and have decided to ask for help finding the cause. It only seems to be my chin that is suffering so I think it must be a reaction - but have no idea what is causing it.

I wash my face twice a day with a clean & clear face wash, then apply azeliac acid very generously and take lymecycline anti biotics - but they just won't clear! They have reduced slightly but are still clearly visible - and it means I can't shave so I'm begining to feel like a tramp

I'm only 16, and everyone I've asked has blamed my age - but surely if this was the case I'd get spots elsewhere too? I have recently stopped drinking milk, use a differant towel to dry my face and change my bedding regularly but the effects have been minimal - any suggestions?

I would be able to post pictures if you want to see the exact type of acne I have.

EDIT - It's pustules and nodules have got on my chin

Anyone used it? I'm wondering if it's any good.

hey, i'm not sure if this is the write place to post this, if it isn't i'm sorry. i have to go swimming tomorrow, but the problem is that I use lotions for my face for acne and dryness, and some mom for oily skin. I'm not sure what to do because they'll most likely wash off in the pool, and I have to go somewhere important afterwards. Any suggestions?

I'm gunna try and sum up my acne life here. help is appreciated.
I've had acne since grade ten, three years now. At first it wasn't too too bad. In grade 11, when it started getting worse, i turned to proactive, no suprise here, it didn't work. Durring this time i was smokeing weed pretty much everyday. I then turned to clean and clear advanged acne solutions (i think that's right). Once again, no sucess. After this i turned to the docs and went on a topical and retin-A cream. No luck.
This is where i started going buck on trying to correct my acne. I turned to Spectro, the whole line, face wash (for blemish prone skin), cleansing pads, and bp gel. I discovered that any sexual activity at al flares up my acne, even just macing with the girlfriend, but after "abstenance" of a week or so it'll start to flare. I'm still on my what i'm calling, spectro phaze. I take vitamin A, B, C, D, E, calcium, magnesium, zinc, chromium, evening permerose oil, centrem protegra, saw palmetto, super apple cider viniger, Omega 3 6 9, and alpha lipoic acid. I go to the gym ever other day and follow it up with the sauna. I've pretty much cut meat and dairy out completely except for a glass of milk after the gym and some chicken or othermeat at dinnner. I don't smoke anymore, i eat at least one apple a day, i drink 4 glasses of green tea a day, i drink four bottles of water a day and 2 bottles mixed with lemon juice.
I'm honestly about to say screw it and just do nothing, it's getting tiresome and although it's not as worse as before, there are consant breakouts and it's not worth it.
and that's my story.
p.s my acne was moderate but now with all the s**t i do i'd say it's mild
i don't know what to do..

My skin has about 4-5 small active pimples, but has mostly little red marks, they are just like little red lumps, quite a few of them on either cheek. WHAT ARE THESE?

Im just designing a regimen, i will use a lot of BP as my skin isnt easily irritated, it dries a bit, but hardly ever gets red and irritated.

Morning:

Oxytetracycline 1g ( prescribed)
Wash with panoxyl 10% bp cleanser
Apply Quinoderm 10% bp cream
Apply aloe vera gel / jojoba oil as a moisturiser

Supplements:

4x zinc
2x cod liver oil

Night:

Oxytetracycline 1g ( prescribed)
Wash with panoxyl 10% bp cleanser
Apply differin 0.1% ( prescribed)
Apply Quinoderm 10% bp cream


Does anyone have any additions / suggestions/ for my regimen?

i was thinking of buying omega 3 supplements, and maybe adding tea tree oil to my aloe vera moisturiser? aswell as this, i never exfoliate so i dont know if i should, or how.

thanks for all help

I am using a no product regimen. I just use water on my face as well as EVOO. It has worked thus far.

Do you guys advise using soap as I shower on my face? I have not been using soap on my face since beginning this regimen, and I also have not been COMPLETLEY clear yet(although I have been much clearer). I read on here that soap isn't really good for the face(like the traiditonal body washes and bar soaps).

Is there a certain soap I should look to buy(regardless of how expensive it is) that will help my acne on my face while sticking to the "no product regimen"(whatever that actually entails...)

What soap should I look into, and should I use soap on my face?

I joined here awhile ago, and my acne was ATROCIOUS. I had nasty dark marks and whiteheads all over my cheeks and chin. I came here, tried NuCelle (skeptical at first) but kept at it..now, five and a half months later, my skin is almost clear.

BEFORE (06-11-2007) AFTER (12-08-2007)

I started with NuCelle Mandelic Acid serum 10% for five months, and then recently upgraded to 15%. I was gonna go on accutane, but now I'm glad that I didn't!!! Now I'm putting it on my back and it has already worked wonders!

i hear that salicylic acid and AHA's along with other chemical exfoliants make your skin more sensitive to the sun

my question is, is this only whilst wearing the product on your skin, or is there a certain amount of time, say a week, after using these products that your skin will not be sensitive anymore?

or maybe its permanent?

any help would be appreciated, thanks.

Im interested in using acv as its cheap and is an AHA...

Is the only way i can apply it by mixing with water?

i wanted to mix it with aloe vera gel and jojoba oil, would this be a viable option or not?

thanks

I don't post normally, I just read and get informed, but there is something that has been bothering me....I started breaking out regularly (1-3 everyday) back in feb. of this year, ever since it has been daily, whereas before it was somewhat spread out.

These are tiny red bumps which sometimes become med-size and sometimes vanish the next day. They don't really hurt, they mostly itch when they come to the surface, then my face feels normal again until they reappear.

I have been using paula's chopice bha liquid at night and mandelic acid in the morning for 2-3 weeks now in hopes these were blocked pores that needed to be cleaned out, but to date, they won't budge, everyday there is a new one.

Is this a specific sort of acne? How can I manage to skip a day or two (a small vacation from these things)?

I introduced this idea in bob mckee's thread, about exfoliating. We were narrowing down ways to be more efficient and it has warranted great results! He agreed, along with other people that this is simply necessary and can help a lot.

What is the baby brush method?

When you exfoliate, most people use st.ives, other topicals, towels, or various other abrasive ways that irritate sensitive skin, and cost a continual supply of money.

Instead of doing all that, there's an easier way. a Baby Hair Brush!

Why?
Remember, mild acne is usually a combination of a few things (topical wise) = Dead skin cells + Oil. We've seen people with oily faces but no acne. That idea made me ask "Technically, oil alone is not the culprit, but also dead skin cells that we cannot see caused from the products we use on our face such as BP, etc). So I put the theory and question into effect and lead to some interesting results.

Most people use body exfoliators for their face, which is also bad since it's really abrasive. Think about it, a baby hair brush is a really gentle tool for the scalp of a baby's head, design to gentle brush the hair to one side. It's so gentle, that it can be used for our skin.

I, and many others on this board, have put this idea into use after trying it out first.

Where do you buy it, how do you use it, and how often?

You can buy it from Baby's R Us or any baby store. It is only about $4 and you won't ever need to buy an exfoliating product/cleanser again. If you aren't sure, go in there and ask them where they keep baby hair brushes, and they will show you. You can even buy it offline if you can find it. Mine is the "american red cross" brand, it came with a comb too (which you don't need but it's okay).

You can also buy it from amazing, I haven't tried it but it should be the same thing. This is what it should look like, no matter where you get it from:

http://www.amazon.com/Safety-1st-Hospitals...=UTF8&s=hpc

How to use it:

I find the most effective way to use it is in the shower. When you get in, before washing your face, let the water stream over your face. Then use the baby brush while it happens, this way it keeps the bristles warm, and won't irritate your face. Using it cold and dry is harsh. Then once you do, use your normal cleanser, this way it will cleanse your pores better and get all the oil out well. And then of course moisturize.

How often:

I would do it twice a week or once a week, it doesn't take too long, it won't irritate you (when doing it gently), and it will do it's job. because we produce 50,000 dead skin cells a minute
(source: http://discovermagazine.com/2007/feb/20-things-skin)

So as you can see, it's very important!

Or best yet, do it as you feel you need it, because we are all different. So if you feel you need to, go for it. But if your skin is irritated, and does not need it, do not do it often. Hope that helps.

Caution for existing white heads

If you have existing white heads when using this, be SURE to clean your brush with soap and water and wash off residue before use. And be sure to go over those spots really gently, as it won't pop them, but don't hold down hard. I had a white head and it did not spread for me.

My results?

I used to have plenty of small red bumps on my face, the type that not all form into white heads, but they kept forming! I always washed and moisturized, what was the problem? I "felt" clean enough.... until I started doing this. I felt my skin smoother than ever, and it started to glow after a week, sloughing off all the old skin! Almost like a safe microderm session. My skin still produces almost the same amount of oil, but the difference is that the oil doesn't clog into my pores as I expected . My face is clearing up big time and it is SO SOFT.

Cleanser and Moisturizer:

Use a gentle cleanser. Over the past 10 years, I've been through various cleansers, and ones that are not acne medicated are best. Gentle ones, like Purpose liquid cleanser works pretty well.

Be sure to moisturize effectively. For a good moisturizing tip, use aloe vera gel, mixed with a bit of cetaphil. I found this out through just experimenting. Here's a good reason why you should do it this way.

Aloe vera thins out the moisturizer, gives it better spread, so it's not too thick.


http://www.herballegacy.com/id12.htm

- Aloe vera penetrates skin deep
- Acts as a carrier for moisturizer to moisturize much deeper.
- Replaces moisture to the skin much more rapidly
- Helps regeneration of damaged skin and protects your skin from bacteria growth
- Dries very minimally, and in combination with a moisturizer, it does not dry at all, but moisturizes




Other methods of doing the baby brush







How to keep the brush clean

We are still not 100% sure how to keep the brush completely clean from bacteria, but what seems to be the popular method is using antibacterial soap, and lathering it with really hot water and making sure to do this for at least 20 seconds. It's best to keep the brush dry after using it so it does not harbor more bacteria than necessary. Also be sure to clean it each time before using it.

If you have any other ideas please let us know and we can edit this portion of this thread

Also, it may be wise to buy a new brush every few weeks since it's so cheap, if you prefer or if you feel it's starting to get too dirty, especially with build up. Or if it's going too soft. Whichever you prefer.
Finally

If you have any questions, concerns, or comments, please feel free to ask here! I also want you to post any results you have here as well, in terms of the condition of your face over time.

Yeah the topic title doesn't have to do with anything, just trying to get your attention. Probably didn't work.

Anyways, besides the thousands of pounds of pills I'm taking everyday (vitamins), I use a 2.0% Salicylic Acid facewash. I believe it's called "Acne-Free". Now, I got off accutane about four months ago and I'm still getting some pimples here and there. My question is, does anyone think I'd be better off using a Benzoyl Peroxide facewash?

Replies are greatly appreciated.

hi,
I have a few, like 3, papule like bumps on the cheeks for about 1-2 weeks. they wont' really come to a head, but they don't hurt. all they do is sit there and stay inflamed... other than these i'm all clear. WHAT SHOULD I DO? to make it come to a head...

would exfoliating the area help? i've run out of ideas!

I have been using the PanOxyl 10% wash at night and the Basis Bar/AHA+ in the A.M. with great results. I want to try to use the AHA+ at night instead, but the PanOxyl already has Glycolic and Lactic Acid in it. I heard it isn't wise to use an AHA on top of AHA.

So, is there a good strong BP Cleanser out there that you guys suggest without glycolic acid in it? Or can I use AHA+ after PanOxyl? btw, my face is pretty much accustomed to the harshness of PanOxyl.

Thanks!

I did a search but couldn't find anything. What toothpaste can cause mouth acne and which is a good safe toothpaste to use?

I have been on a workout routine since about october of last year and this is about the same time i started getting bad acne. At first i thought it was the harsh winter which i do think added to my problem worse. But the acne i have had is on the chin area and on cheeks under eyes. It has stayed persistent ever since. I think now it has to do with sweat running down on my face. My workout routine consists of running for 30min and lifting an hour after that. 4x a week. I do sweat on my face quite a bit during the run and had been wiping with my shirt or hands during the run. Could this have been clogging my pores all along? I have not ran in about a week or so and just lifted and i have not had any flare ups at all and face is starting to clear up do to not sweating and keeping up with my daily regime which consists of:

Morning wash of cetaphil gentle cleanser, 50mg Minocycline,
Night: 50mg minocycline

My skin has become less dry by keep with the wash only in mornings.

I love to work out and keep in shape and was wondering if i bring a towel with me during the run and just pat dry the sweat as it starts to come down will i prevent from clogging pores on chin and cheeks before it gets there? I know you have to shower/wash face after that and i always did before about an hour after but i guess it was not soon enough, but thats how long it will take me since i lift afterwards? Will a clean dry towel be enough? Thanks!!

okay well my title says it all...im very curious on how lemons works, do i leave it on overnight everyday? or rinse it off when its dry? never had bad acne til i hit sophomore year and its getting ugly. it jus keeps coming coming and coming. if u guys ever use lemons may i know some regimen u guys use everyday? i was thinking of using my men face wash during my showers. den after showers put the lemon on. and if i do, do i leave it on overnight or rinse it? which one gives better results because i am getting 2 different things from reviews

I'm 14, and I've always had problems with spots, but not majorly. But about 5 weeks ago, one day I woke up and noticed a couple of rather large red lumps on my right cheek. So I put my prescribed roll on acne treatment on, and the lumps soon went away, but now I am left with really dark blotches on my face. I have been trying and trying to get rid of them, but they just will not fade. This is really harming my confidence. I have tried; Bio-oil, light treatment, and spot treatment but the marks won't budge. I would like to know if anyone has any good tips for getting rid of scars/marks left by acne? Btw, I do have sensitive skin, so I cannot use harsh products x

hello,

I am 19 years old and have had acne since i was about 12. My acne had pretty much subsided from the time was about 15 until i was 18; i had occasional breakouts but for the most part my acne was under control. Approximately a year ago i began to break out more than usual. At first i didn't think anything of it, but by the end of July of 2008 it started to get pretty bad. Also, maybe i should add that this was the summer before i went away to college. I had been taking septra DS once a day for sometime and a little before i started to break out i stopped taking it; however, as soon as my breakout began i got back on it. The breakout was pretty much only on my right cheek with very little anywhere else. The acne continued to come up in this spot until about Halloween, when for for some unknown lucky reason it subsided. I was happy and i though my acne was gone. There is minimal scaring where this acne was, mostly in the form of a cluster of what look like enlarged pores - nothing too noticeable.

Okay, so fast forward. this past March i began to break out again, slightly below the spot where i had broken out before. it wasn't anything too bad...it would go away for a few weeks and come back... kind of a constant back and forth... but overall not very bad. Then i came home from school at the end of may. My skin continued with this back and forth, until about a week ago, when my skin just started to break out really badly. It's still this one spot - my right cheek - and im not sure what to do about it. i wouldn't be as concerned but im beginning to think that this acne is going to scar pretty badly. what do i do? i use Benzoyl peroxide morning and night and differin gel at night only. and i dont think it has anything to do with talking on my cell phone of my pillow. does anyone know what i can do? i have to get this figured out asap

g'day all.

Let me start off by saying this is the first and probably only message i will post on this site, so i'm gonna have my say and make it count. that's why it's so long. I would also like to say that i am not here to flog off any product or miracle cure anything of such. My intention here is to only share my findings to those of you who have suffered this "hell" (i can't think of a better word) for the countless years.

i have been lurking this site for the last 5 years or so. i've always used the information i've found on here, but i never registered until just now. it is because i kind of made a promise to myself that when i found my freedom i would let everyone on here know how i managed to do it. if it helps one person in a thousand who reads this, i will be happy. no one deserves to suffer this.

also while lurking this site i've seen (and ofcorse been fooled by) the fakes who were using acne.org to advertise their useless products with their cheesy "i was skeptical at first" bulls**t. to me, those who would do this, those who would blatantly cash-in on peoples suffering and provide no relief are the lowest of low. there is a special place in hell for people who would do this. i would say that no-one deserves acne, but i question that logic when i think of them.

anyway, my story. like everyone else, it started. i was about 17 when i thought "ok, enough. i am a teenager, but now school's out, i should start enjoying my life by first getting rid of this pesky problem. you'll be gone in a month's time now that i'm focusing on clearing my skin". obviously it didn't happen. i suffered the embarressment of having to ask my mum to buy me products from the supermarket. then the embarressment of having everyone at the chemist (i live in a small town) know that i have acne. it sucked because every chemist in town has beautiful girls working there and i know them all. i had to look like a leper when i went out (although it was never that bad, it was only moderate at worst. i told myself that i was a leper). i am actually a very handsome man when the f***ing things are gone, but there they were. i'd go out and feel the upmost sadness when i saw a beautiful girl who i knew i would never get to date. life sucked hard. i'm sure you all know the feeling.

i started trying hard to get rid of it with pro-active. because i saw it on tv. 6 weeks later, my skin was red and greasy. it had absolutely no effect on acne. next i tried s*** called Accuzine. a pill i saw on the internet. it worked beautifully. after 2 weeks - Kaboom. i should have had a mask like phantom of the oprah. even my skin was itchy. so i filed it under "Bin".

the following 7-8 years were supposed to be the best of my life. i can't think of worse. i tried everything. and i do mean everything:

-about 5 different ebooks (3 told me the same thing with the omega oils for the hormones ect.)
-B5 crap
-alovera
-salicylic acid
-skin peals
-breathing exercises (now it controlled the way i breathed too)
-too many diets to mention
-collidal silver, topical silver
-countless herb concoctions
-barley grass supplements
-skintactix (may as well rub clay on your face, and chlorine to make the acne worse)
-flayvay or whatever its called
-zeno (expensive heap of s*** that they make you buy more tips for for it to work - low bastards)
-thermaclear (this one actually works half the time, i still use i rarely)
-gold soap
-bruunhause (i would go through the scam artist who made this like a circular saw if i had the chance)
-biodermagen (same as above)
-that 3 piece one like proactive that had bp and the chemicle that stops testosterone in the skin or something, i can't remember its name
-3-lac and 5-lac for candida
-about 10 different methods for a candida cure
-papulex

i'm sure there's about 20-30 different brand name products i haven't mentioned because i can't remember them all. but i estimate i've spent up to about 10 - 15 thousand dollars trying to fix this (and i've never set foot in a derm's office in my life. i was too afraid). nothing else mattered. not even family or friends. i was hell-bent and i refused to live in the same life as this (suicide thoughts were always present). but everything i tried, the acne wouldn't even budge. this condition has simply tarnished what should have been a good young adulthood and i havn't lived a day since it first showed its ugly self. i knew i wasn't alone (which provided no comfort at all) and i was confused the whole time seeing none of my siblings, parents or grandparents ever had acne like i did.

i gave up countless times, then kicked myself back into the fight. for those 7-8 years there wasn't a moment of solace. it even followed me into my dreams at night. i would have nightmares about acne.

it was up until about a month ago that i found my freedom, i had felt like this everyday even when it was clearish, i was still sad because i knew in 3 days it would be back again.

so how did i do it? to put it simply, i took one element out of dan's regimen and applied it to my own. i had been using a soap i had bought on ebay called chinese sulfur soap. only because i knew it didn't have radioactive chemicles in it. also my diet is perfect (although i don't really think its nessacary anymore seeing i've tested it again to no negitive effect). i stay away from pork (allergies), and cooked veggie oil, and i eat veggies whenever i can. sugar has only an immediate but now limited effect. i also train like a madman. and i was also using papulex, but mainly because its leftover and i use it as moisturiser. it won't work miracles on its own. but there was never any guarantee that my skin wouldn't break out. so whats different? what did i do from dan's regimen?

I WASH MY FACE AS GENTLY AS I CAN. my fingers barely touch my face as i rub the sulfur soap over my face. thats it. thats all it was. i used to wash my face like i was washing the dog. and thats what made my pimples never disappear, although the first years would have been hormonal. but nowhere near as bad if i had just done this to start with. it was my mother who had told me to "really scrub it in or it won't work" when i was 14 and i had used that advise since (until now).

my skin's not as dry when i get out of the shower after doing this and sometimes i don't even need the papulex (moisturiser). my skin had never been clearer in 8 years.

All of this time suffering, hating, and waking up furious in the morning, its all over. i havn't had a decent size pimple since i started doing this. and they are still going away. i do get little ones that i just laugh at now because they are so powerless. they are gone in a day.

anyway, i think i should stop writing this book now. i've started living my life and i'm not afraid anymore. like i said, if this tiny bit of advise just helps one person out there as much as it did me, i'll be happy.

goodluck to you all

BE GENTLE WITH YOUR SKIN OR IT WILL HATE YOU BACK!!!