Many thanks to Mumblesorusjen for posting this article in the Acne Research forum .... and to Lorrie for suggesting that we spread the news.



The pH (power of hydrogen) factor is a term most of us have heard but which few understand the significance of as it relates to skin care. Calculated on a scale of one to 14, pH refers to the levels of acid or alkaline in a substance. Below seven is acidic, above is alkaline, and seven – the approximate optimum level for the body – is neutral. However, skin has a different pH and to avoid and treat dry skin, it is important to choose skin care treatment products that have the proper pH balance.

The pH of normal skin ranges from 4 to 6.5, which is slightly acidic. This acidic environment is referred to as the skin’s ‘acid mantle’. It contains a number of different acids including lactic acid, amino acids and free fatty acids. One of the major functions of the acid mantle is to protect the skin and body from the absorption of bacteria. As bacteria cannot survive in an acidic environment, maintaining the correct level of acidity is vital.

If the acid mantle is disrupted, the skin also becomes more susceptible to damage. Although acid and alkaline are on opposite ends of the spectrum, either disrupts the pH and either can cause dry skin.

Alkaline stronger than pH 8 is very irritating to the skin and, unfortunately, the majority of skin care treatment products and household cleansers are far too alkaline. Most skin care soaps have a pH factor of 9 to 11 and many household cleansers range between 10 and 12. Oven cleaners come in around pH 13, which is why using rubber gloves is recommended.

When the acid mantle is disrupted by using skin care treatment that is too alkaline, it takes about 14 hours for the skin to get back to normal. However, by that time we’ve usually used the products again so, in fact, the damage never really gets repaired. The result is apparently permanent dry skin.

Fortunately, the condition is not actually permanent and you can start improving it by reading product labels. Often a label will state the pH or describe the product as ‘pH balanced’ which is supposed to denote a pH that approximates that of the skin – although, to be certain, I would look for the number, not just the ‘pH balanced’ designation. Look for skin care products that are between pH 4 and 7 and you will be on your way to preventing and treating dry skin.


[article from http://www.theopenpress.com/index.php?a=press&id=16033]

Part I: Avoiding Harmful Products


When Buying Products

Don't Buy Cleansers That:

1. Contain harsh surfectants like sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate.

2. Are in bar form. These contain harsh cleansing agents like sodium cocoate, and the ingredients that keep them in bar form can be absorbed into the skin to clog pores. Also, many bar soaps have alkaline pH levels, which actually encourages bacterial growth.

3. Are daily scrubs containing uneven particles like walnut . These can tear at the skin and cause irritation.
Look for scrubs with smooth, round, bead-like particles.

4. Contain waxy, pore-clogging thickeners. Products in cream form tend to have these.

5. Contain animal oils*. Animal oils resemble human sebum and can clog pores similarly.

4. Give a "tingly" or "cooling" feeling. That feeling is caused by skin irritants like menthol and camphor.

5. Are medicated. If the medication contains a chemical exfoliant like salicylic acid, the cleanser is almost certain to have too high of a pH (over 4) to allow it to act as an exfoliant. Chances are that the majority of any medictation used in a cleanser will be washed away before having any real effect. If you let a medicated cleanser (either one containing a chemical exfoliant or one containing benzoyl peroxide) sit on the skin in hopes of giving the medications time to penetrate, than chances are you'll also be allowing the cleansing agents time to irritate the skin.

* Emu oil for some reason seems to be an exception according to users of this site.

Don't Buy Toners or Astringents That:

1. Contain drying alcohols, witch hazel, peppermint, or other skin irritants.

2. Contain animal oils. (See "Don't Buy Cleansers That:")

3. Contain rice or corn ingredients, as these can encourage bacterial growth.

Don't Buy Salicylic Acid Products* That:

1. Contain skin irritants like drying alcohols, witch hazel, peppermint, or other skin irritants.

2. Have a pH higher than 4 or else the salicylic acid will not be an effective exfoliant. A good idea of a product's pH can be obtained with pH indicator strips.

3. Contain rice or corn ingredients (See "Don't Buy Toners or Astringents That:")

* Most salicylic acid products are not pH correct, contain irritants, or both.

Don't Buy Benzoyl Peroxide Products:

1. That contain skin irritants.

2. To use in conjunction with prescription retinoids (with the exception of adapalene which is used in Differin). Benzoyl peroxide renders most retinoids unstable and should be applied only in the morning if a prescription retinoid is being used at night.

3. Contain animal oils. (See Don't Buy Cleansers That:")

Don't Buy Tea Tree Oil Products That:

1. Contain skin irritants.

2. Have less than a 5% concentration of tea tree oil, or more than a 15% concentration. Too little tea tree oil is likely to be ineffective, and too much may be irritating. You can, however, buy pure tea tree oil and dilute it, so long as you aim for the right concentration.

3. Contain animal oils. (See Don't Buy Cleansers That:")

Don't Buy Moisturizers That:

1. Are in cream form. (See "Don't Buy Cleansers That:")

2. Contain animal oils. (See "Don't Buy Cleansers That:")

3. Contain rice or corn ingredients. (See "Don't Buy Toners or Astringents That:")

4. Contain skin irritants.

Don't Buy Sunscreens That:

1. Are in cream form. (See "Don't Buy Cleansers That:")

2. Contain animal oils. (See "Don't Buy Cleansers That:")

3. Contain rice or corn ingredients. (See "Don't Buy Toners or Astringents That:")

4. Do not contain avobenzone, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, mexoryl sx, or tinosorb; the ingredients recognized by the FDA to provide adequate UVA protection.

5. Do not have an SPF of 15 or higher.

6. Contain skin irritants.

In General

1. Don't use products that contain skin irritants. Skin irritants prematurely kill skin cells, littering the skin with more dead skin cells than it can naturally slough off, thus creating a greater risk of clogged pores. Skin irritants also interfere with the skin's healing process, which can result in an increase in bacteria.

Some common skin irritants are:

Alcohols. Ethanol (grain alcohol), denatured alcohol, ethyl alcohol, methanol, benzyl alcohol, isopropyl, and SD alcohol should be avoided. (Exceptions: Ingredients like cetyl alcohol or stearyl alcohol are fatty alcohols. Some alcohols like SD alcohols can be used in small amounts. An ingredient is in a small amount if it appears at the end of an ingredients list).
Ammonia
Arnica
Balm mint
Balsam
Bentonite (can be used in the occasional clay mask, but avoid frequent use or formulations which contain other "actives")
Benzalkonium chloride (if it is one of the main ingredients)
Benzyl Alcohol (if it is one of the main ingredients)
Bergamot
Camphor
Cinnamon
Citrus juices and oils
Clove
Clover blossom
Coriander
Cornstarch
Essential Oils
Eucalyptus
Eugenol
Fennel
Fennel oil
Feverfew
Fir needle
Fragrance (may be listed as "Parfum")
Geranium
Ginger
Grapefruit
Horsetail
Jasmine
Lavender
Lemon
Lemongrass
Lime
Linalool
Marjoram
Melissa (lemon balm)
Menthol, Menthyl Acetate, and Menthyl PCA
Mint
Oak bark
Orange
Oregano
Papaya
Peppermint
Phenol
Rose
Sandalwood oil
Sodium C14-16 olefin sulfate
Sodium lauryl sulfate
TEA-lauryl sulfate
Thyme
Wintergreen
Witch hazel
Ylang-ylang

2. Don't base your use of a product on whether or not it says "non-comedogenic," "oil-free," "hypo-allergenic," "dermatologically tested," and similar terms. These are flashy marketing terms that have no regulations, therefore, they can mean anything. As mentioned earlier, products with waxy thickeners and animal oils (not plant oils) are most likely to clog pores. Mineral sunscreen ingredients like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide can clog pores, though synthetic sunscreens like avobenzone can irritate the skin of certain people and also trigger breakouts. Everyone is different and will be sensitive to different ingredients, so there is no real way of knowing what will or will not clog pores, just what may clog pores. One other thing- acne can take two weeks to form, so if you break out right after starting a product, don't assume that product was the culprit.

3. Don't use specialty products (chemical exfoliants, moisturizers, etc...) that are in jar packaging to minimize air exposure. Oxygen can render certain ingredients unstable. Also, with jar packaging, there is a concern for product contamination. Sunlight can also render certain ingredients unstable, so if you buy a product in clear packaging, be sure to store it in a dark space (such as a medicine cabinet or drawer).

4. Don't assume that the stronger a product (i.e. the higher the concentration of an active ingredient), the more effective it will be. Using a product that is too strong for you may cause irritation that can worsen acne. What is a good strength varies by person.

5. Don't assume that naturally-occurring ingredients are better for your skin. As can be seen by the list of common skin irritants above, there are plenty of ingredients both man-made and naturally-occurring that can be irritating to the skin.

6. Don't touch your face if you can avoid it so as to prevent the spread of contaminants.

7. If you have trouble with inflammatory acne, change your bedding often (once a week), and keep anything that touches your face frequently (like a phone or washcloth) clean and disinfected to prevent the spread of contaminants.

8. Don't use makeup testers on your face to prevent the risk of contamination.

9. Don't apply your moisturizer over areas of your face that are not dry. Applying moisturizer where it is not needed can increase the risk of clogged pores by mixing with excess sebum and "gluing" dead skin cells to the skin's surface.

10. Don't tan. Tanning only temporarily masks acne, damaging the skin in the process, which can actually lead to a worsening of acne. Even if tanning did help, it's not worth the risk of skin cancer, premature aging, cataracts, cellulite, and rosacea associated with unprotected sun exposure.

11. Don't steam the skin or rinse with hot water as this can cause irritation and capillaries to surface. It is best to wash with luke-warm water.

12. Don't give up on a new regimen. You need at the very minimum one month and preferrably two to see results. When using prescription retinoids, you need at least three months.

13. Don't over-scrub the skin as this can cause irritations. It is best to use gentle, circular motions. When drying the face, pat the skin dry as opposed to rubbing it dry.

14. Avoid doing anything to aggravate a pimple. It may be beneficial to pop one provided the pimple is ready to pop, but only apply light pressure. Never squeeze, scratch, or pick at it. If light pressure does not release the contents of a pimple, you will likely worsen it should you increase that pressure.

15. Don't use more than one method of exfoliation at once. For example, don't use a scrub followed by a salicylic acid product, or a salicylic acid product followed by an alpha hydroxy acid product. You risk over-irritating the skin.

16. Don't generously apply products (with the exception of sunscreen, which should be generously applied). Usually only a dime-sized amount / thinly applied layer is all that's needed for the entire face. Over-applying products can be harmful to the skin.

17. Be happy! Who knows, your skin might even get clearer as a result. If not, it's better to have acne and be happy than it is to have acne and wallow in gloom.


__________________________________________________________________________



Part II: Building a Regimen

Here are some products you could use to help build your own customized regimen, which are also listed in the responses below.
I recommend building a basic regimen that includes at the minimum these steps:

1) Cleansing with Lukewarm Water
2) Exfoliating
3) Disinfecting (If You Have Inflammatory Acne)
4) Moisturizing Dry Areas Only (Nighttime)
5) Applying Sunscreen to All Exposed Areas of Skin (Daytime)

You can also include other steps in your regimen, like the application of toners which don't contain chemical exfoliants (not that toners containing chemical exfoliants shouldn't be used if that's your method of exfoliation) or of retinoids. Also, you don't have to apply all these products at the same time; for example, you can exfoliate as often as twice a day or as little as once every other day. You should, however, cleanse twice daily.

Something I want to make very clear is that I am not advertising a cure for acne. The above mentioned steps follow skin care basics and are beneficial to most people. Subsequently, using a regimen following these steps may result in clear skin, but it may make absolutely no change whatsoever. If you use the wrong products or can't tolerate certain steps like exfoliation or certain types of ingredients like benzoyl peroxide, it might even make your skin worse. If you're looking for a starting point to treating acne or have been following a damaging skin care routine and want to stop, I definately recommend giving such a regimen a chance, but I don't want to give anyone false hope that their acne will disappear from following it. You may have a stubborn case of acne that is beyond the help of over-the-counter treatments, in which case I advise you seek a dermatologist's help. I also want to stress that the treatments I recommend below are not the only decently formulated products out there (though the salicylic acid products I listed are the only ones I know of that are both pH correct and gentle).


Some cleansers you may want to consider are:

Clinique Liquid Facial Soap Mild Formula
Eucerin Baby Aquaphor Gentle Wash
Eucerin Redness Relief Cleansing Gel
Paula's Choice (any cleanser)
Purpose Gentle Cleansing Wash


Some manual scrubs you may want to consider as exfoliants are:

Essential Nutrients Daily Exfoliating Cleanser with Soft Massage Beads
Nivea for Men Energizing Face Scrub (women can use this too)


Some toners (not containing chemical exfoliants) you may want to consider are:

Biotherm Biosensitive Soothing Refreshing Spring Mist
Clinique Mild Clarifying Lotion*
Derma E Pycnogenol Facial Toner, Fragrance Free
Nivea Visage Moisturizing Toner
Paula's Choice Toners

*This contains about a 0.5% concentration of salicylic acid at a pH of around 4, making it minimally effective for exfoliation, though you probably won't notice a significant difference in your skin due

Some salicylic acid products you may want to consider as exfoliants are:

Bare Vitamins Skin Rever-Upper (if it really has a pH of 3.8, as the company claimed in an e-mail)
Neutrogena Rapid Clear Acne Defense Face Lotion
Olay Total Effects Anti-Aging Anti-Blemish Daily Moisturizer
Paula's Choice 1% or 2% Beta Hydroxy Acid products*
Serious Skin Care Clarifying Treatment

*Paula's Choice makes by far the best salicylic acid products


Some benzoyl peroxide products you may want to consider as disinfectants are:

Dan's Clear Skin Regimen Gel (2.5%)
Jan Marini Skin Research Benzoyl Peroxide (2.5%)
Mary Kay Acne Treatment Gel (5%)
Oxy Balance, Sensitive Skin Acne Treatment, Vanishing Formula (5%)
Paula's Choice Blemish Fighting Solutions (2.5% or 5%)
Persa-Gel 10, Maximum Strength (10%)
Zapzyt 10% Benzoyl Peroxide

Some tea tree oil products you may want to consider as disinfectants are:

Derma E Tea Tree and Antiseptic Cream* (5%)
Desert Essence 100% Pure Australian Tea Tree Oil (diluted; aim for between a 5 and 15% concentration in your mixture)

*This product is in jar packaging, so the vitamin E and other antioxidants won't be stable, but the tea tree oil should work. It is also in cream form, which users may want to be wary of.

Some over-the-counter retinol* products you may want to consider are:

Diacneal with 6.4% Glycolic Acid
Green Cream
Jan Marini Factor-A Lotion
Makeup Artist's Choice Retinol Serum (which comes in clear packaging, so store it in a dark place)

*Products containing retinol do not necessarily produce similar results to prescription retinoid products

Some moisturizers you may want to consider are:

Dove Sensitive Essentials Daytime Lotion (no SPF)
Green Canyon Spa Skin Barrier Serum
Malibu Hemp Moisturizer Body Lotion for Dry Skin
Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Moisture Gel
Zia Natural Skincare Herbal Moisture Gel

Some sunscreens you may want to consider are:

Clinique Super City Block SPF 25 Oil-Free Daily Face Protector
Jan Marini Antioxidant Daily Face Protector
M.A.C. Daily SPF 15 Light Moisture
Neutrogena Active Breathable Sunblocks
Neutrogena Ultra-Sheer Dry-Touch Sunsblocks
Proactiv Solution Oil-Free Moisturizer with SPF 15

There is an esthetician in the San Francisco Bay Area who has a very high success rate with patients who come in for acne. She and her staff are passionate in this area. In particular, I'm hoping she'll fill in where I leave off when it comes to non-inflammatory acne (the stuff that stays under the skin and doesn't get red). Please post your questions for her by replying to this thread and I will ask her your questions in our interview. Questions on blackheads are welcome as well.

Thanks!

Dan

Since so many people including myself have questions about BHA's and AHA's, I thought I would post this for everyone to read and learn about them. I got it from the Paula's Choice website so I have to give her props for educating us. It's long but very imformative. Read and learn:

Understanding Exfoliants

AHAs vs. BHA
There are two primary topical ways to exfoliate skin, either with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), or with beta hydroxy acid (BHA). There is only one BHA (beta hydroxy acid) and that is salicylic acid, but there are a variety of AHAs. The five major types of AHAs that show up in skin-care products are glycolic, lactic, malic, citric, and tartaric acids. Of these, the most commonly used and most effective AHAs are glycolic and lactic acids. Both of these have the ability to penetrate the skin, plus they have the most accumulated research on their functionality and benefit for skin.

What glycolic, lactic, and salicylic acids both do is "unglue" the outer layer of dead skin cells, allowing healthier cells to come to the surface. Removing this dead layer can improve skin texture and color, unclog pores, and allow moisturizers to be better absorbed by the skin. Both AHAs and BHA affect the top layers of skin, and they help to improve the appearance of sun-damaged, dry, and/or thickened skin. Sun damage in particular causes the top layer of skin to become thicker, creating a dull, rough appearance on the surface of skin (Sources: Archives of Dermatologic Research, June 1997, pages 404–409; Dermatologic Surgery, May 1998, pages 573–577). There is even research showing AHAs can generate collagen production (Sources: Experimental Dermatology, April 2003, (Supplemental), pages 57-63 and Dermatologic Surgery, May 2001, page 429.)

Because AHAs and BHA work through chemical processes, they can penetrate the skin and produce better results than cosmetic scrubs, which work only on the exposed surface of the skin. And, there is no risk that AHAs and BHA will cause you to lose too much skin. Technically, there is a drop-off rate, meaning the AHA and BHA will exfoliate just the dead or damaged surface skin and leave the healthy skin alone. This is the main reason why you will see a drop-off in performance when using an AHA or BHA product. The dramatic results in the beginning of usage (when the thickened, discolored layers of skin are being removed) seem much more impressive than the results from continued use. This is to be expected, and it is important to note that continued use of an AHA or BHA product is required in order to maintain skin’s smooth, even-toned, healthy appearance.

The primary difference between AHAs and BHA is that AHAs are water-soluble, while BHA is lipid-(oil) soluble. This unique property of BHA allows it to penetrate the oil in the pores and exfoliate accumulated skin cells inside the oil gland that can clog pores. BHA is best used where blackheads and blemishes are the issue, and AHAs are best for sun-damaged, thickened, dry skin where breakouts are not a problem (Source: Global Cosmetic Industry, November 2000, pages 56–57).

pH Sensitive AHA and BHA
AHAs work best at concentrations of 5% to 10% with a pH of 3 to 4, and their effectiveness diminishes as you go above a pH of 4.5. BHA works best at concentrations of between 1% and 2%, and at an optimal pH of 3, diminishing in effectiveness as you go past a pH of 4. Both AHAs and BHA lose their effectiveness as a product's pH goes up or the concentration of the ingredient goes down. (Source: Cosmetic Dermatology, October 2001, pages 15–18).

If the cosmetics industry isn't forthcoming about the necessary percentages and pH for a BHA or AHA product (and most companies aren't), how can you tell if it provides decent or effective exfoliation? Consumers can't, not unless they are shopping with pH measuring paper in hand, which is exactly how I rate exfoliants when I review products for my book, newsletter, or Beauty Bulletin. As a general rule, it is best if the AHA ingredient is either second or third on the ingredient list, making it likely that the product contains a 5% or higher concentration of AHAs. For salicylic acid, because only a 2% to 0.5% concentration is required, it is fine if this ingredient is located toward the middle or end of the ingredient list.

It is interesting to not that at any pH, AHAs provide the added benefit of helping to keep water in the skin at the same time that exfoliation is taking place. This is due to the way they affect skin cells adding increased protection. AHAs can also increase the production of ceramides in the skin, which help keep it moist and healthy (Source: Dry Skin and Moisturizers Chemistry and Function, edited by Marie Loden and Howard Maibach, 2000, page 237).

While BHA penetrates deeper into the pore than AHAs, it can be less irritating than AHAs. This is due to BHA's relation to aspirin. Aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid) has anti-inflammatory properties and BHA, salicylic acid, is derived from aspirin and on the skin, retains some of its same anti-inflammatory benefits.

AHA and BHA products can definitely smooth the skin, fade signs of sun damage, correct uneven skin tone, improve texture, unclog pores, and give the appearance of plumper, firmer skin (because more healthy skin cells are now on the surface). Unfortunately, they have no residual effect—when you stop using them the skin will go back to the condition it was in before you started.

AHA Confusion
There are AHA sound-alikes, including sugarcane extract, mixed fruit acids, fruit extracts, milk extract, and citrus extract. You may think you've purchased a more natural AHA product when you see these less technical names, but that isn't the case. Although glycolic acid is derived from sugarcane, and lactic acid from milk, that doesn't mean sugarcane extract or milk extract are the same as glycolic or lactic acid, yet they do share these acid’s water-binding properties, in much the same way as salicylic acid share’s the anti-inflammatory properties of its relation, aspirin.

Unless you see glycolic, lactic, malic, tartaric, or citric acid on the ingredient list, it's all too vague and meaningless, making it impossible to determine what you are really buying. My advice is to be very suspicious of any product that claims an association with AHAs but contains a variety of sound-alike ingredients.

BHA Confusion
Products boasting that they contain a natural source of salicylic acid (BHA) usually add willow bark. Willow bark contains salicin, a substance that when taken orally is converted by the digestion process to salicylic acid. That means the process of converting willow bark to salicylic acid requires the presence of enzymes to turn the salicin into salicylic acid. The likelihood that willow bark in the tiny amount used in cosmetics can mimic the effectiveness of salicylic acid on skin is in all likelihood impossible. However, willow bark may indeed have some anti-inflammatory benefits for skin because, in this form, it appears to retain more of its aspirin-like composition.

What About Higher Concentrations of AHAs?
Removing the outer layer of skin can be taken too far, and many cosmetic dermatologists and researchers worry that the increased irritation and exfoliation caused by higher concentrations (above 10%) of AHAs may be too much for skin. Without more evidence showing a benefit from higher concentrations, I feel that you can achieve great results without any unwanted side effects. Further, the positive results women and men perceive with higher concentrations of AHAs may come from the swelling and edema they cause. That may diminish the appearance of wrinkles and make the skin feel smoother, but it is most likely not best for the long-term health of the skin due to the increased amount of constant irritation.

Polyhydroxy Acids
The search for an effective form of AHA or an extra ingredient that can enhance performance and reduce irritation has been a popular topic of discussion among cosmetics formulators. Gluconolactone is a type of polyhydroxy acid that NeoStrata believes serves both ends: It is supposed to be just as effective as AHAs but also less irritating.

Gluconolactone (PHA) is similar to AHAs. The significant difference between the two is that gluconolactone has a larger molecular structure, which limits its penetration into the skin, resulting in a reduction of irritating side effects in some skin types. So is gluconolactone better for your skin than AHAs? Research indicates that AHA and PHA perform identically with AHA having a slight edge for improving the appearance of skin and PHA having less risk of irritation (Source: Cutis, February 2003, (2 Supplemental), pages14-17).

Retinoids (Retin-A, Differin, and Tazorac)
Let me make it perfectly clear that retinoids are not exfoliants, though many people think that's what they do. Retinoids are a general term referring to a vast range of ingredients derived from vitamin A. Prescription-only, topically applied retinoids are significant for skin because they can positively affect the way cells are formed deep in the dermis.

If you have sun-damaged, dry, wrinkled, or acne-prone skin, you should become familiar with the names Retin-A, Renova, Differin, Avita, and Tazorac, which all contain different forms of retinoids. The active ingredient in Retin-A, Avita, and Renova is tretinoin, Differin uses adapalene, and Tazorac uses tazorotene. In fact, both Renova and Tazorac have been approved by the FDA for the treatment of wrinkles (Sources: Dermatologic Surgery, June 2004, pages 864-866; Archives of Dermatology, November 2002, pages 1486-1493; Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, October 2001, pages 613–618; and www.fda.gov).

Exfoliants such as AHAs and BHA primarily affect the surface of the skin (epidermis) or the lining of the pore by actually ungluing or dissolving layers of skin cells. In contrast, retinoids affects the lower layers of skin (dermis), where new skin cells are produced. Retinoids actually communicate with a skin cell as it is being formed, telling it to develop normally instead of developing as a sun-damaged or genetically malformed skin cell.

Why the confusion about the effect retinoids can have on the skin? Primarily it's due to the fact that products containing retinoids can cause irritation and inflammation, resulting in the skin becoming flaky and dry. This flaking and dryness is not exfoliation, nor is it a desirable or advantageous result. If retinoids cause your skin to be consistently dry and flaky, it is a problem and you should probably avoid products that contain it or reduce how often you use them.

Despite the valuable effect retinoids can have for skin, don't expect retinoids to erase wrinkles because they are not a wrinkle cure. However, if skin cells can be produced with a healthier form and shape, the skin's surface will have a smoother appearance, skin cells will do their job of turning over in a more normal fashion, the protective outer layer of skin will remain intact, enhancing the skin's healing response, and on and on. In essence, the skin will behave and look the way it did (to some extent) before it was damaged by the sun.

Regardless of these positive effects, retinoids will be useless, and the skin will be prone to more damage, if you do not wear a sunscreen as well. Not a wrinkle cream in the world, even one approved by the FDA, can have positive results if you don't use an effective sunscreen; without that, you are just adding to damage you already have accumulated.

What retinoids, AHA, and BHA products have in common is that once you stop using them, your skin will revert to the way it was before. These products will not produce permanent change. The smooth exterior lasts only as long as you use them. But used together long-term, they are a formidable weapon in the battle against wrinkles and blemishes.

I live in Finland where it's normal to enjoy a night or two of moderate drinking per week. One thing I've consistently noticed that my skin is almost always at its best/clearest the morning after nights out. Hungover and dehydrated but my skin is usually very clear overall and hardly ever are there any new zits. This despite the fact that when I come home after a night out I usually never even wash my face, let alone apply benzoyl-peroxide or any of my usual routies - I just brush my teeth and go to bed.

On a similar note I just got the flu and have spent the last four days feeling super sick at home. I've washed my face ONCE in the last four days, haven't applied BP or any other products even once, haven't gotten any sun/fresh air and just generally have lived like a dirty slob. And yet when I look at the mirror my skin is again very good: hardly any new zits and in general the tone of the skin is very even, like I can hardly believe how small the pores are and how uniform the skin on my cheeks looks. One denominator to the hangovers is the dehydration - body screaming for water all the time and when you do drink you still don't pee huge amounts.

Any theories on what could be behind this effect?

I have been following the regimen strictly for about 2 months now and still am getting "hard" pimples along the jawline and around my mouth. I have tried eliminating several things from my diet such as eggs, certain protein powders, and creatine but nothing seems to help eliminate this. I pretty much get one or two new pimples daily. Any suggestions?

Hello,

I wanted to ask if it is ok to use Duac without moisturizers ? I think my skin has got used to it and is only dry for maybe 10minutes after applying it. I want to find out if it is ok, since i dont want to cause any skin damage.
Also when I apply moisturizer i feel that my skin is burning more than when i dont apply moisturizer.

Any advice is highly appreciated

Thanks

I'm just wondering because I have started using this every night on my face as a last ditch attempt to cure my acne. I had read that it helps to reduce the amount of sebum your skin produces.

Also, I have become sick and tired of having an itchy dry face from using BP continuously for years and want to try something a little more 'kinder' to the skin.

However, Jojoba oil is extremely greasy and I'm now worried that I may start breaking out.

What do you think??

Bee

Also, my acne is caused by long term lithium use rather than inherent oily skin. COuld this make a difference?

Okay so I've been through the Regimen before and it worked okay for me. Then I went on the Nuva Ring birth control and that also helped. But then just like 3 weeks ago! I started breaking out so bad. And so today in a fit of depression I raced to Target to grab something anything to help. And I started to look around and saw that the Nutrogena product saws results can be seen in 48 hours, lessening of redness and irritation and size of the evil said bastard pimples.

Plus I'm seeing someone new and who wants to kiss a face full of zits?

So has anyone tried this?

Did I just waste 20 bucks?

Sorry Dan the Regimen isn't working for me anymore!

Hey there guys.

I've been suffering from folliculitis on the back of my head for quite a while now.

There are a lot of red pimples, some whiteheads and lots of inflammation. My father has that too but doesn't pay so much attention to it.

However, it bothers me a lot.
http://250kb.de/u/091102/j/01301c41.jpg

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The only thing that temporarely helped me a little bit was selenium sulfide shampoos (with tea tree oil addes). However, it never solved the problem.

a dermatologist now prescriped me minostad (minocylin), which is as far as i know used for severe acne which i don't really have. However, I'm a bit worried of the horror stories I've read after quitting the medication etc.

Any advice/experiences?

Okay, I've had this acne problem for a few years now (maybe 5 or 6). I am now a freshman in university (19 this month) and it continues. I've tried using types of Neutrogena products and am now a few days into this Clearasil Ultra cream (which has Sodium Lauryl Sulfate that I read was not good?) and no dice. I even try washing four times a day (with just a dab of cream, not a ton).

Anyway attached is a picture. I think I have perhaps more oily skin than average. I also have the spots left over from the acne. Will they go away? Is there something else I can do to help all this go away? I need some advice...

thanks

my doctor told me today that acne medications cause premature wrinkles and usually they severly damage your skin espectally the layers underneath. eventhough acne also hurts your skin and decreaces its health, helath-wise would it be better just not to use any special medication or face wash and just to use natural stuff like aloe and tea tree oil?

If you have sensitive skin (which is why most of us are here) beware of Matrix Sleek.Look shampoo and conditioner because it made my skin breakout the worst I've ever experienced. I struggled with acne throughout my teen and early twenties (15-21), but, for whatever reason, it began clearing within the last couple years. My skin was the best it had ever looked this past summer. I had been using over-the-counter benzoyl peroxide for maybe the past year and using cetaphil moisturizer. I attributed (and these are mere postulations) my clearing up to this regimen and my moving away from heavy makeup use to cover the acne, which I now believe had only caused a vicious cycle of perpetuating more acne due to my recent breakout. I purchased this shampoo and conditioner the end of July and began breaking out almost immediately. Within a two weeks, I had under ten pimples in the inflamed sore stage. Not having had anything more than a tiny pimple or two for months, I thought I looked horrible, but things continued to get worse. For about a month and a half, I never realized that the problem might have been the shampoo and conditioner. By that time, my entire chin and jawline was taken over. In mid September, I purchased Kern's benzoyl and the AHA to help clear it up. I quit using the sham/con once I realize that it was the only variable different and my face immediately stopped the exponential breakout. It literally felt like I would have new pimples by the end of every day. So, it is 7 weeks later and I'm still working on clearing this up by adamantly following the regimen. I have two main points I want you to get from this story: 1) I recommend that you not try Matrix Sleek.Look if you're acne prone even though my hair did look and feel awesome. 2) Once something makes you breakout, the clearing up results may not begin the second you quit using the product. I know now that this shamp/cond was the problem because my skin had been clear for so long, but even after 7 weeks of not using it, I'm still breaking out, though not as severely. Whenever I get a pimple, it seems to have a cluster effect and a couple more will pop up in the same area though they are no longer sore and giant inflamed whiteheads. My final point about this is when I think back to my teen years battling my acne. I used heavy foundations and powder to cover it up when really, they might have been the cause, but I would have never waited a couple months and go without the coverup to wait for it to potentially clear up. So remember when you're trying to eliminate variables that might be making you break out, it is going to take time especially if there are several things contributing to your problems.

so i've been hearing alot about how carbohydrates induce acne. so i was wondering what is the amount of carbohydrates that a product should have inorder for it not to induce acne?

i'm very reluctant to try dan's regimen because i feel it may be a bit tooo chemicallly harsh for my skin and i can see it having some severe reprecussions in the future. are there anymore safer,more natural ways for me to atleast heavily diminish my acne? please share some tips.

for me, it would definitely be pizza, sausages anything deep fried and pop. i also find that if i don't dilate concentrate juice with water it causes me to breakout as well.

I wouldnt say my pimples are severe but pretty mild just the usual pimple once a week sometimes inflammed one and little tinys ones on my forhead and such but wouldnt say its that bad. Well what i wana know is could it be the enviroment iam in that could potentially cause acne? i basically work outdoors farming in the hot weather, with dirt dust, dirty water (washing the vegies) all round outdoor things but can never find out what triggers my pimples. i always wear sunscreen a wide brimmed hat and tend to sweat usally and always be cautious when workin with dirt and such. Basically would a dirty, sweat out face trigger acne? i always shower first thing striaght after work and cleanse, but what confuses me is my brother, he had acne around age 18 like pretty severe because i remeber he used to always tell my mum about it, he had big cyst papules and such always went to doctors because he was worried but he never used any medicine or creams to treat his acne except a cleanser and he did a facial wash which he told me about and his 25 now .We both work in the same enviorment he gets very dirty when working like he wouldnt care about his face and his face is fully pimple free. Could it be he just grew out of it? if it is i hope that happens with me iam 17 now hopefully somewhere around 20 i shuld be pimple free like him (praying).
Even my other 2 brothers who used to get pimples are pimple free they are age between 25 and 30 but my sister whose 23 never had a pimple in her teenage days and she still pimple free till now , so why me?

............wearing off. when i first started using tetrycycline almost immeidiately my skin showed amazing results. it was almost impossible for me to get a pimple on my face. now? it seems like tetrycycline isn't doing a damn thing at all, i get pimples just as ofter as i use to which is daily.
do you think i should continue using this product in hopes that it still has some kind of effect or should i do on to antibiotics?

So for the past few days I've been using tea tree oil on my face before bed, and I haven't seen as noticeable results as reviews have said. So I read my bottle, and it turns out it's not pure... it's got a bunch of other stuff mixed in there with it.

So I had my dad go out and buy 100% pure tea tree oil. On the back of the bottle, it says that if it's your first time using tea tree oil, to dilute it with olive oil or water.

I have sensitive skin, and I also got a facial earlier, so I don't want to put this stuff on and burn my skin off and go backwards, lol, but I HAVE been using diluted tea tree oil... I think?

Not sure what to do. Anybody have tips?

I've gone throw a mental minefieldand came out to where i am today. Here's what i believe, and here's my regiem. I'm big on the minimalistic aproach to preventing acne, i know it's an internal issue thus that BP and other over the counter chemicals just don't top the bar. My diet is pretty good, i don't believe that is the cause for me. I'm into my second week of taking many vitamins including omega 3-6-9 and the slugger, flax seed oil. I'm just starting to use baking soda every other day. i run in the morning then go for a shower and wash with spectro jel. i hit the sauna at night and spectro it up after as well. twice a week i exfoliate with salt. after i wash i always use spectro moisturizer. i recently quit smoking week and i limit my sexual activity as i believe that my acne is largly hormonal based. i think i should be acne free in a couple weeks of religiously folling my routine but any advice would be greatly appreciated.

kyle

everytime i use any type of prescription acne medicine, it seems to not be nearly as effective about a year after getting it then i have to go and get a prescription for a stronger, more epensive medication do i get used to it? what can i do to stop this? can u accually get used to it? is my acne getting worse?

so far i have used:
benzamycin
tetracycline
dalacin-t
clyndoxyl


which have all worn off over time.

ok so i have had really really bad blackheads since i was 8 or 9 years old!! my medications do not help it and i need to know how to get rid of them! i do not want to "pop" or "remove" them because it just makes my skin really red and it maked them spread. is there anything else i can do for my black heads? i must have atleast 100 of them, no joke.

This is what finally helped me. For the first time in 6 years I have no Acne. I don't wash my face in the morning.

[AT NIGHT]
-Wash face with Olay Dual Action Cleanser+Pore Srub
-Neutrogena Alcohol Free Toner
-Then I put on Aczone Medication.
-10 Min. later I put on Tazorac Medication.
-Another 10 Min. Later I put on dabs of Clearasil 10% Benzoyl Peroxide.

The Aczone and Tazorac worked OK for me but after I added the Benzoyl Peroxide to my regimen it really helped.

I went through years of acne and many visits to the dermatologist. My skin has finally cleared up. I have noticed that if I forget to use the Benzoyl Peroxide a small pimple will pop out. For now I need to make sure to keep using it. Maybe in the future I won't have to keep using medication, hopefully.

I wash my face with spectrojel.
Once in the morning in the shower.
Once at night before bed.
I have mild mild acne on my face, arms, chest, shoulders, back, neck, and back of neck.

I don't really know what to do anymore
I've had this acne for about 3 years.
I use dove soap in the shower for my body.

I tried using BP, it makes my face very dry, and then about an hour later it is very greasy. I do not see any significant difference in my skin if I leave it on overnight. I used to apply it regularly, every night before bed until I wake up.

My skin is very dry after I wash it, but it gets VERY oily and greasy throughout the day.
My body acne is fairly oily too.

Here are some photos of acne can be viewed here:
(There are more on this link than there are uploaded. The ones here are better than the attatchments.)

s25.photobucket.com/albums/c100/ffllldan/Face/

ahhh im seriously lost haha. the soft coloured bumps on my nose are frustrating me along with the HUGE pores and recurring blackheads on my nose, upper lip and chin. I've been to the derm a couple of times and she's offered to squeeze the bumps ( i forgot the proper skin word haha) but says a, i think its called a pit scar? will be left, and ive got heaps already argghh lol

shes offered me roaccutane now, but im yet to accept, im a bit hesistant and to be honest im scared of the side effects, especially since ive been through depression, so i just your thoughts on this, since i can trust you guys for some valid feedback

Ok, well here we go!!,
since i was pretty young i would always, looked after my skin, cleanse, tone, moisturize, exfoliate, ect.
i wasn't very smart in what products are good for my skin, and i sometimes used very harsh products on my skin, i have normal/combo, and kinda oily skin. and i only about a year ago, got products right for my skin. But now i look after my skin, but i still get pimples, probably 7-10 on my forehead, i usually wear my fringe out, and that could be causing it, but i get very very sore pimples, and they hurt quite alot, and there always fire red. and they can get very big.
I dont know whats causing it, and every one in a while, i get thousands of blackheads on my nose, but no where else. but the worst thing is, i have red cheeks, and nose, and chin. Do i have rosascea? im not sure. but they are like inflamed. its disgusting. I drink alot of water, do meditation, excersise, and yoga. and i still get pimples, and the moment i have about 4, small ones. but they will come back, grr i just hate it. it gets me down and it embarrised can anyone help?

My face routine.
I usually mix, a milk cleanser, with dove beauty bar soap, and a dab of head and shoulders.
Usually exfoliate with, sugar, or bi carbonate soda.
and i tone my skin with, a mix of my own bottle of, green tea, skin brightening solution, and witch hazel, diluted with water.
I dont really moisturise i sometimes do.

So anything would help!! thanks.

I've had acne for years and years and nothing seems to work, I've been using BP and other stuff for months on end with no results and it's really affecting me.

I was told by someone to go to the GP and ask for antibiotics but I'm a little unsure on whether I should go because I see people with worse acne than me who don't care but I really hate the way I look. I'm scared the doctor will just laugh at me or something, and it will be a waste of time.

In August I went to the doctor about my skin as it just wasn't getting better. I had recurring red long lasting pimples along my jawline, in particular, with a small smattering across my cheeks, mostly on one side for some reason.

I went to the doctor with the intention of getting onto Roaccutane as I was concerned about the red marks being left behind by the pimples and ending up with long term scarring. The doctor suggested I try something first to see if it worked.. and it has.

There have been a couple times over the past year and a half where my skin got rather bad (moderate to somewhat severe) and so if this works, considering how relentless the pimples were, how red they could get, says something.

Before jumping onto something as potent as Roaccutane, I suggest asking your practitioner about a trial of Doryx 50 first, which are the pills, and have worked absolute wonders with my skin. Also ask for Eryacne gel, which you should use once a day, every night to combat infections and to dry out any pimples that may be forming.

I wanted to share this with you all as I would frequent forums like this browsing over threads for cures and I had many times of hopelessness. Acne really affected my self esteem and confidence. It does matter, it's your face and you're facing people every day, so if you are miserable, go do something about it and trust me, Doryx is magic! I don't even have to wear foundation anymore, which I had taken to wearing pretty much every day for several years (water based, no oil, fragrance etc, Maybelline) I tend to only wear it for events or sometimes at night if I'm going out.


Do yourself a favour, guys! It really works. But you have to be diligent. No skipping pills or applications of the gel. I didn't start the gel right away but gave the pills some time to work alone before introducing my body to the gel as well, and they do compliment one another.

The gel, my doctor explained, is simply a gel equivalent of the Roaccutane pill which dries out the bacteria. Roacctunate basically dries out your body inside (and out) which is why there are so many side effects to it. So if you are willing to give it a go, do so, it's a less harsh route for the body to endure. Within the first fortnight my skin's complexion had improved and the clearing had already begun, but it can take longer, however my experience with it has been fast and efficient so it may be the same for you too. I've been on it for a few months now and will probably stay on it another few to be sure. The good thing about this duo is that you can go on and go off the medication/ointment as you see fit -- if you get acne here and there you can start the pills again or just the gel, it all depends on how your skin behaves in reaction.

I wish you luck!

Hey guys, I'm sorry if you get these posts too often, but I didn't know where else to post it.

I've had acne for about two years now. I've never had horrible acne, but I've had acne in spots on my cheeks. I guess I'd describe my acne as a rollercoaster; either it is clustered or spread out in spot on my cheeks, or I might not have any acne at all. My acne isn't bad, I'd consider it pretty mild. It never gets extremely clustered, but it only gets bad (for me) when I have a couple of spots on my cheek.

When I do get the "bumpy" sort of acne, I can treat it right away. I put benzoyl (sp?) peroxide on it, and it goes away in a day or two, but you can see obvious progression of the bump shrinking. The problem I have is with the "spots" of acne that just linger. Up close they don't look horrible, but when you step back a foot or two the redness of all of the spots makes my face a little bit blotchy. I'm not sure how to treat those spots. I'm not sure how to describe that "spot" acne. I usually have a couple of them on my upper cheek, and they aren't pustels or bumps. They are sort of flat and red, and I don't think they have any head on them. They are realitively small up close, but it adds up when you look at it from far away.

I've tried Differin, but almost every time it is hit or miss. It either somewhat works, or it makes the area I apply it to breakout a bit. I wash my face once a night before I go to bed with regular dove soap and nothing else. I use Aveeno Daily Moisturizing lotion on my face after a shower because I notice that my skin gets dry, but is it not doing me any good because it isn't specifically meant for my face?

I'm wondering if I should get a face moisturizer or a face wash, or some type of acne face wash. I noticed that my face is a bit oily when I've looked at it under the mirror. I'd give you guys a picture of what it looks like to clarify, but I'm headed to another state in 15 minutes. To sum up my issue, my problem isn't bumpy acne. It is the acne that sort of lingers, and is basically flat, and I am not sure how to treat it.

Any help would be welcomed and very appreciated If anything needs to be clarified then let me know.