Licochalcone - Glycyrrhiza glabra

Powerful molecule contained in licorice root extract, isolated for our use

What is it?

Licorice root has been used in skin care for millennia. According to the National Cancer Institute it has "potential anti-inflammatory, antioxidant...activities." licochalcone is a molecule contained in licorice root extract which helps control oil production, and helps calm and soothe acne-prone skin. It is suitable for sensitive skin, and imparts a natural yellow color to products.

How it's been working for me:

Right now the only product I use which contains licochalcone is AHA+, the 10% alpha hydroxy acid that I made for us. I'm not certain if it is the licochalcone or the other ingredients in the AHA+, but it works much better for me than any other alpha hydroxy acid that I've tried before. My gut feeling is that it is a combination of the licochalcone and the other ingredients.

My bottom line on it:

I am skeptical of pretty much anything that comes along, but when I learned about licochalcone at the Society of Cosmetic Chemists meeting a couple of years ago, I found it intriguing. I decided it was worth a closer look. After doing more research, I found myself impressed by the company that makes it and by its potential. Several trustworthy mentors of mine in the acne community also espoused its properties and recommended its use. But as we all know, the proof is in the pudding. So I had a few of our formulators make products with this ingredient and I absolutely adored them. I'll be curious to hear more from you guys once you've tried it as well.

One challenge it presents:

It is very expensive ($6000 per kilogram), so it increases the cost of products, but I'll do everything I can to keep prices as low as possible when I formulate with this ingredient.

Where to get it

DanielKern.com
Licochalcone is a key ingredient in the 6 oz. size 10% glycolic acid (AHA) plus licochalcone.

References