For the past month or so I have been moisturizing every night with 1/2 Acne.org Moisturizer and 1/2 AHA+. I mix them up in my palm before applying. It’s been great. My skin is staying even toned and perfect and because the AHA+ is diluted by the Moisturizer, it is not too strong for nightly use. If you decide to try it, let me know how it goes for you. I’d like to get some feedback.

Note: I usually add 5-6 drops of jojoba oil in there too, but this is not necessary.

– Feel like you want to apply AHA+ but don’t want the full whammy of 10% glycolic acid?

– Feel like you want to apply Acne.org Moisturizer but want to give it a kick of AHA?

– Feel like using AHA+ often but find that it’s too much for every night?

The answer: Mix them together. I do this quite a bit, for all of the above reasons. Because I formulated both products to be compatible, you can mix them together without issue in any ratio you’d like. Just something I wanted to put out there.

Update: A few of you have been asking for an SPF update. I’m working on getting it feeling just right with ingredients that are uncompromisingly high quality yet within financial reach. The bottom line is that it will come out when all of this comes together but I can’t guarantee when that will be. It may take some time since SPF is quite a tricky brew. I know it’s been a very long time, and it may still be longer. I can promise you one thing–that I am working on it and will let you know the minute it’s done.

In the meantime: A couple of options:

1. Olay Complete All Day UV Moisturizer with a 5-6 drops of jojoba oil added.

2. If that doesn’t work well enough to take care of flakiness, you can mix equal parts Olay Complete All Day UV Moisturizer with Acne.org Moisturizer, and then add 5-6 drops of jojoba oil.

3. Another option is Philosophy Hope In A Jar SPF30. I love this stuff but it is zinc based like so it is a flake promoter, much like the Olay. Since I use benzoyl peroxide and need something to combat flakes, I often mix equal parts Philosophy Hope In A Jar SPF30 with Acne.org Moisturizer plus 5-6 drops of jojoba oil. This gives me an SPF of around 15 and keeps me pretty good on flakes. The only downside is that the Philosophy SPF is very expensive (around $35 for 2 ounces). But since I mix it with Acne.org Moisturizer it goes twice as far.

Spot treatment: Someone asked about the spot treatment as well. This project is on the back burner at this point. In the meantime, the AHA+ works so well for spot treating that it is definitely a suitable alternative.

SPF: We have been painstakingly sourcing each ingredient from around the world in an attempt to keep the price on the SPF within reason and within reach. We’re making good progress, and it’s my goal (perhaps I should say prayer since it’s not entirely up to me) to put a sample into FDA required stability testing soon so it can be out for at least part of this summer’s season. No promises, but we’re working on it every day. Depending on certain ingredient lead times and availability, my fingers are crossed that we can make this happen sooner rather than later.

Spot Treatment: The last spot treatment we designed seemed to have everything going for it, and then wham, our testers tried it under BP. It balled up and looked like mini cottage cheese curds on the skin. At the same time, my mind got piqued regarding other potentially beneficial ingredients, and I have been reading about some of them while having a team of people gather research on others. The spot treatment appears to be more of a long term project at this point. I want to launch a spot treatment only when it is revolutionary and amazing since the AHA+ already works so well for me. However, it is very much on the radar.

Moisturizer: For quite some time now, because of my extreme schedule and inability to read through the message boards as much as I would like, Brandy and C’est La Vigne have been updating me regularly on your posts. Rest assured that if you express your concerns to C’est or Brandy, they are likely to be expressed to me. Lately, Brandy and C’est have been telling me that several of you would like me to bring the old moisturizer back. I am hearing you and understand your frustration. However, with my apologies, I’m afraid this is not possible. First, since I would not be recommending it or mentioning it on the web site, I would need to produce it in very small amounts. This is an extremely expensive proposition on several levels–small label runs & small production runs would run the cost into an entirely new “private label” placement in which prices would reflect expensive boutique brands. Next, our full-time team is swamped with current products, and we do not have the resources to relaunch a product at this time. Finally, I feel more comfortable with people using the new moisturizer. While the new formula requires more generous application (at least 3 pumps), the increased gentleness and soothing ingredients that the new moisturizer keep me steadily on board with strongly recommending it over the previous version. For those of you who are experiencing increased dryness with the new moisturizer, please read this post for my recommendation on how much to use, but keep in mind that our current batch of pumps dispense a bit less, so you will need at least 3 full pumps, not 2.

Are any of you wondering why it seems like your moisturizer isn’t working as well as it used to? You’re not alone. Every year around this time people come to me complaining that their moisturizer just doesn’t seem to be as powerful as it used to be. “Aha!,” I’ve exclaimed, in the nicest way possible of course, “It is not your moisturizer! It’s just winter.” It’s true that people experience increased dry skin in the winter. But this year I decided to do a little more digging to find out exactly why. As it turns out, there is startlingly little scientifically sound explanation to be found, and myths abound.  As is often the case, it falls to us to sift through the nonsense and make some sense of this issue.

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First, let’s dispell the myths:

When weather gets cold, it gets dry. This is claimed so often and by so many “reputable sources” that I almost took it at face value myself. But when I decided to double check this pervasive claim, it completely fell apart. I looked at historical charts of humidity levels across the United States throughout the seasons.* It turns out that humidity levels show no particular trend from summer to winter. In fact, in many cities, even Northern cities, humidity levels are higher in the freeze of winter than in the bask of summer.

The winter is blustery and wind dries out the skin. Many of us can recall experiencing our share of cold, windy winter days, and could swear that we experience “windburn”, characterized by dryness, redness, and irritation after being outside on these blustery days. But a look at the evidence forces us to consider other possible causes. The only experiment I could find was performed all the way back to 1937, and was published in Popular Science. Scientists founds through using a wind tunnel that wind alone does not create “reddening or chapping” of the skin. Furthermore, upon browsing through historical wind speed charts, I found that that much like humidity levels, wind speeds show no yearly trend. There is no evidence of higher winds in the winter months. Regardless of all this evidence against the wind creating redness, dryness, and irritation, many sources not only talk about the existence of windburn, but will even explain why it occurs. The most widely used explanation is that wind removes surface lipids (oils) from the skin. Exactly how the wind performs this feat is conspicuously absent from all of these articles. Furthermore, if wind is just as strong in the summer, why don’t people seem to experience windburn as much in the summer? Another common explanation that attempts to explain windburn, which is the current explanation on Wikipedia, is that windburn is actually just sunburn caused by the wind removing surface lipids (oils) which help protect us from UV rays (another claim I am yet to find evidence to support). While the wind can remove some of these surface lipids year round, they say, the removal of the surface lipids in the winter coincides with a season when we do not protect our skin as valiantly from the sun. Thus the redness and irritation people experience is simply a sunburn. This explanation is incomplete at best, and completely misinformed at worst. Yet another explanation, albeit less frequently posited, claims that wind removes sweat, which normally helps filter UV rays. Again, how sweat helps filter UV rays is conspicuously absent.

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Whew. So, now that we have gone through the myths, the fact remains that many people experience dryer skin in the winter. Why? After looking at all of the available evidence, I have a hunch it can be attributed almost entirely to:

Artificial heat: Mother nature can heat up or cool down the great outdoors while keeping humidity levels steady, but when we heat indoor areas, this lowers humidity. When you look at the science of relative humidity (I won’t bore you), this is how it works. For an everyday example, notice how when you heat your bathroom while taking a shower there is less steam in the air. Since most of us live and work in artificially heated indoor environments in the winter, it’s likely we experience long-term exposure to lower humidity environments during the winter months. This dries out the skin, causing many of us to wonder why our moisturizer isn’t working as well as it used to. Back to my original point, “It’s not your moisturizer!” And introducing my new, improved answer, “You’re living in lower humidity indoor environments in the winter!”

And what about the cold? Strangely, none of the authors or reporters writing about winter and dry skin mention the effect cold air itself has on the skin. However, I have a hunch extreme temperatures may figure into a complete explanation of why some people experience dry skin in the winter. When we expose our skin to freezing temperatures, the skin reacts through natural protective methods, most prominently by withdrawing blood from the surface of the skin to protect core temperature. This is the first step which ultimately leads to the skin freezing which causes frost bite and cell death. My hunch is that perhaps even during shorter duration exposure to freezing temperatures which people sometimes experience on cold days, the skin still reacts through a more mild form of cell death. This mild cell death, while not as apparent as the blisters caused by frostbite, is evidenced by flakiness or dryness as the dead cells flake off. The redness experienced by many people after exposure to winter weather, while it would require further research for me to be more definitive, could be the result of cell death or simply the body returning blood to areas where it has been withdrawn.

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So, what can we do about it?

1.  Humidify your home/workplace. Install a humidifying system into your central heat. Alternately, if you use wood burning stoves or kerosene heaters, you can place pots of water on top and let the water evaporate, then repeat. You can always boil a large pot of  water on the stovetop as well, being careful to keep a close eye on it of course. There are commercially available electric stand-alone humidifiers as well. 60% humidity is a good general goal to shoot for. You can measure humidity with widely available humidity measuring devices which are available at most hardware stores, or you can be more relaxed about it and just notice how you–and your skin–feel. When the humidity reaches a comfortable level you will feel less dry and generally more comfortable. You should also notice less static electricity, less shocks, and less frizz to your hair. An easy way to tell if you’ve gone too far and over-humidified your space is if your windows start to pool water at their bases.

Perk: Adequately humidified air feels warmer than dry air at the same temperature. In other words, you can get away with heating to a lower temperature.

2.  Use more moisturizer: An extra pump or two of moisturizer each time you apply should help.

3.  Add jojoba oil: Since jojoba oil does not evaporate, 5-6 drops of jojoba oil added into your moisturizer each time you apply it will provide a boost of all-day moisture support.

*Yes, I know. There is more to the world than the United States, but…well, okay fine, I have no excuse. I’ll make a note to look outside the U.S. for my next research-related blog. :-)

After a restful holiday break, I am back in the saddle and have resumed coaching people through The Regimen.  My fresh eyes can’t help but notice a string of similarities amongst my coach-ees:

1.  They go too fast.

Them: [Quickly move their hands over their skin]

Me: Whoa Nelly! When you go too fast, that creates irritation. Let’s slow it down. Here, let me show you. [I demonstrate washing very slowly]

Them: Wow, you want me to be that gentle?!

Me: Yes.  As you get more experience in performing The Regimen, your skill level will allow you to go more quickly and remain gentle.  For now, be patient and go slowly.

2.  They want to shorten the amount of time between steps.

Them: [3 minutes after washing] Can we do BP now!?

Me: Whoa Nelly!  The waiting periods are important.  Try to settle into a routine that includes doing dishes, saying goodnight to your kids, etc. while you wait between steps each morning and evening.  We want The Regimen to become part of your life and not make you feel like you are just “waiting.”

3.  They add in variables way too soon.

Them: Someone on the message board said a 4 blade razor works better, so I got the one they recommended.  I hope that’s OK.

Me: Whoa Nelly!  I need you to stick to The Regimen exactly until you are completely clear. That includes using only a 2 blade razor. Imagine you have blinders on. We want to get you completely clear before we add in any variables, and we know if you follow The Regimen precisely we’ll get you clear. Once you are completely clear, then you can add in 1 variable at a time, like trying a 4 blade razor.

4.  Once they are clear, they add in more than 1 variable at a time.

Them: I figured since I was clear that I would try to just use BP once a day.  Oh yeah, and I also started using this great new SPF I found.

Me: Whoa Nelly!  One at a time.  You’re going to be in the sun a lot in the next month or two, so let’s add in the SPF and see how it goes for at least 3 weeks.  If you’re consistently clear after 3 weeks we can try going to BP just once a day and see if you stay clear.

5.  They are emotionally attached to their unused, expensive products.

Them: I’ve got a really expensive department store acne scrub.  Can I use it with The Regimen?

Me: Whoa Nelly! Like most people, you are disposed to inflammatory acne. The last thing you want to do is scrub and irritate your skin. Why don’t we se how much you can get for that scrub on Ebay, shall we?

6.  They are clear.

Them: Wow, The Regimen really works.

Me: Good job! You listened to me, followed it exactly, and it worked.

Hey you guys.  It’s Thanksgiving tomorrow. I want to take this opportunity to remark on how thankful I am to have your feedback on the site and the products. We take your comments under careful consideration. Nothing gets past you guys, and that’s awesome because it keeps our team here abreast of every possible issue.

The new pumps: Recently we switched to a new pump because some of you told us your products were arriving with broken pump heads.  The new pumps we ordered come with neck closures which help prevent breakage during transit.  We made sure the pumps have have-extra wide heads too since you guys tend to prefer that style.  However, you never know when you switch from one manufacturer to another if you will find variances, and in this case it appears that the new pumps dispense a little less per pump than the old pumps did.

Dispense 3 pumps now

We carefully measured, and to dispense exactly the same amount as before, you will need to dispense 3 pumps of each product instead of the usual 2. Aim for a quarter sized amount. Especially when it comes to benzoyl peroxide, it is absolutely vital that you are generous in application.  The moisturizer is also designed for generous application.  When in doubt, use more.

We will work to change the wording on the web site to reflect 3 pumps.  2 pumps is ideal, however, so we have already begun working with the manufacturer to make sure the next set of pumps dispenses slightly more.

Happy Thanksgiving and keep the feedback coming!  We really appreciate hearing from you guys.

Edit:  You guys wanted to see a comparison of old vs. new pumps.  I just took a quick pic so you can see:

SPF: We’ve nailed a formula. The good news. And it’s really good news because it’s taken about 128 formulas, and several years to get there. The bad news is that I’m finding it is super expensive to produce. The quotes I’m getting from suppliers are so high that I don’t feel right passing it on to you guys. We want products that are the very best in the world, but also affordable. I’m determined to make it happen, and we will launch this, but I want to do it affordably. I’ll keep negotiating with suppliers until we get the price into an acceptable range–while compromising nothing in regards to quality of course.

Spot On

Spot Treatment: The last group of testers gave me mixed feedback. We have good news and bad news again. The good news it that most people are saying this is a spot treatment which actually works. The bad news is that it’s not working well when it is applied before benzoyl peroxide. When people put it on before BP it can become very slightly curdled. So I went back into the lab this week and made a few more iterations in all different types of bases: creamier, more water-y, and more serum-esque, in an effort to remedy this. I kept all of the important active ingredients in there. In the meantime, if you want a spot treatment, the AHA works really well for me and lots of people on Acne.org. Just be certain to catch a zit at the very earliest stages.

I know you guys are going to love the new moisturizer, but I want to make sure I state very clearly to:

Use 2 full pumps of it

Our old moisturizer was made with glycerin, which is extremely moisturizing, but can cause redness and stinging and can leave the skin feeling tacky. In our new moisturizer we switched from glycerin to methyl gluceth-20. Methyl gluceth-20 is extraordinarily gentle. It won’t sting or cause redness and does not leave a tack on the skin. It is just as moisturizing as glycerin when used in larger amounts. I use 2 full pumps each day and I’m good to go.

The new formula also has licochalcone in it. Licochalcone is the most powerful natural calming agent found on land (there is a type of sea coral that is more calming but I think its wrong to harvest sea coral). With proper application you’ll notice your skin is calmer and less irritated, which is a huge benefit to acne-prone skin. But to get the full calming and moisturizing benefits of the moisturizer, 2 full pumps (4mL) must be applied daily in the AM and PM. (Note: You can substitute the moisturizer with AHA+ ever few nights if you wish)

Looking forward to your feedback!


We just launched the new Regimen pages. New treats await:

– Simplified into 2 pages now, not 3

– Drawings!

– More explanation including How and Why for each step

– More info on finding the right products

I hope you like them! Thanks to Kent and Joel for knocking it out of the park. You guys are incredible.

This is just a start. We’re going to redesign the rest of Acne.org too. It’s on its way…