8577792156_aaa5d79a90_zI live in San Francisco where the weather is almost always temperate–cool with low humidity. However, I am in Pennsylvania right now visiting family. I forget how unforgiving hot, sticky summer weather can be to acne-prone skin until I am enveloped in it. I’ve had to be super strict with The Regimen since I’ve been here to stay clear. This is par for the course in hot, humid weather, however. Researchers have found that people in hot and humid climates have more incidence of acne and more severe cases of acne than those in temperate climates. This is not to say that you can’t still stay clear during summer. It just takes stricter adherence to The Regimen.

Tips to stay clear in hot/humid climates:

1. If you end up sweating, try to be gentle when you dry off. Dab your skin gently with a towel or napkin and do not rub the sweat off. Constantly wiping off sweat can be irritating to the skin and cause a breakout. More tips on how to avoid irritation here.

2. Be super strict with The Regimen. Do it twice a day, every day, use plenty of benzoyl peroxide, and moisturize even if you don’t feel that you need to. In the summer it is even more important to follow The Regimen to a T.

3. Try adding 10% glycolic acid (AHA) to The Regimen to bump up the effectiveness even more. Just be sure to adequately protect your skin from the sun if you decide to add in glycolic acid.

4. Since body acne can be aggravated by irritation, and sweat + irritation can make this worse, you may need to treat your body in the summer as well.

Now go out and have some fun! :)

aha_6ozLeading medical journals have published two articles recently on the potency of glycolic acid to clear acne. It’s nice to see this hard evidence come in after so many years of all of us realizing first hand that glycolic acid helps keep us clear.

The first article in The Journal of Dermatology attempted to gauge if glycolic acid peeling helps improve acne, and if it does, whether it is through its ability to kill acne bacteria (P. Acnes). The researchers found “significant improvement of inflammatory eruptions from the first application.” They also found that glycolic acid kills acne bacteria: “Each treated side (of the person’s face) had much lower numbers of colonies compared with the untreated side…”

The second article in the Journal of the German Dermatological Society summarized what we are now seeing in the medical literature when it comes to glycolic acid and acne: “Patients assess their skin as more tensile, firmer, smoother and more youthful looking after the use of AHA containing products. For mild acne, the efficacy has been proven by double-blinded, placebo-controlled randomized clinical trials.”

For more on how to use glycolic acid with acne, see this video:

To order Acne.org 10% Glycolic Acid (AHA+) go here.

References:

  • Takenaka Y, et al. “Glycolic acid chemical peeling improves inflammatory acne eruptions through its inhibitory and bactericidal effects on Propionibacterium acnes.” The Journal of Dermatology. 1012; 39(4): 350-4.
  • Babilas P, Knie U, and Abels C. “Cosmetic and dermatologic uses of alpha hydroxy acids.” Journal of the German Dermatological Society. 2012; 10(7): 488-91.

For those of you who have tried The ZIIT Method, you know it works as long as you catch the zit early in its lifecycle. But why does it work? Is it the Zinc, Ibuprofen, Ice, or Treatment that is doing the most?

In order of ability to stop a zit in its tracks I would rank them like this:

1. [Tied for first place] Ice and Treatment (2.5% benzoyl peroxide followed by 10% glycolic acid)
2. Ibuprofen (or other NSAID)
3. Zinc

We know that early application of 2.5% benzoyl peroxide and 10% glycolic acid will usually stop a pimple from forming. However, ice is often overlooked for its anti-inflammatory prowess. Try and and you’ll see. Next time you feel a zit forming, even if it seems like it’s going to be a big painful one, try The ZIIT Method, and don’t forget the ice component.

A tip for how to apply ice:

Put a piece of ice in a ziploc bag:ice_ziit

Get yourself an eye patch from your local drugstore. They are cheap. I got this one for about $2.49.photo-74

Then hold it on the pimple for 5 minutes. photo-73

Do this twice a day along with the rest of The ZIIT Method and you will be surprised how much power you have over a menacing zit–as long as you catch it early.

For the past month or so I have been moisturizing every night with 1/2 Acne.org Moisturizer and 1/2 AHA+. I mix them up in my palm before applying. It’s been great. My skin is staying even toned and perfect and because the AHA+ is diluted by the Moisturizer, it is not too strong for nightly use. If you decide to try it, let me know how it goes for you. I’d like to get some feedback.

Note: I usually add 5-6 drops of jojoba oil in there too, but this is not necessary.

– Feel like you want to apply AHA+ but don’t want the full whammy of 10% glycolic acid?

– Feel like you want to apply Acne.org Moisturizer but want to give it a kick of AHA?

– Feel like using AHA+ often but find that it’s too much for every night?

The answer: Mix them together. I do this quite a bit, for all of the above reasons. Because I formulated both products to be compatible, you can mix them together without issue in any ratio you’d like. Just something I wanted to put out there.

Thanks for voting everybody. We will go ahead and move forward with a larger 16oz. AHA+. We’re also looking into whether we can make a 3.4oz. one as well, but this may take a bit longer. I can’t quote any exact launch dates at this point, but we are ordering the necessary raw materials and we will get the new size(s) of AHA+ up on the site soon. Thanks for your input on this.

Recently we’ve had a few members let us know that the new moisturizer is leaving a yellow hue on their white collars.  I have never noticed this myself, so thanks for the feedback. Both Acne.org Moisturizer and AHA+ contain an efficacious amount of licochalcone.  This means they are great at soothing and calming the skin, but this also means the products are bright yellow in color.

Once given about 30 seconds to absorb into the skin and dry they will not stain.  So, to avoid staining your collars, consider letting the products absorb before dressing. If you are already dressed when applying, take extra care to avoid light colored collars.

I know you guys are going to love the new moisturizer, but I want to make sure I state very clearly to:

Use 2 full pumps of it

Our old moisturizer was made with glycerin, which is extremely moisturizing, but can cause redness and stinging and can leave the skin feeling tacky. In our new moisturizer we switched from glycerin to methyl gluceth-20. Methyl gluceth-20 is extraordinarily gentle. It won’t sting or cause redness and does not leave a tack on the skin. It is just as moisturizing as glycerin when used in larger amounts. I use 2 full pumps each day and I’m good to go.

The new formula also has licochalcone in it. Licochalcone is the most powerful natural calming agent found on land (there is a type of sea coral that is more calming but I think its wrong to harvest sea coral). With proper application you’ll notice your skin is calmer and less irritated, which is a huge benefit to acne-prone skin. But to get the full calming and moisturizing benefits of the moisturizer, 2 full pumps (4mL) must be applied daily in the AM and PM. (Note: You can substitute the moisturizer with AHA+ ever few nights if you wish)

Looking forward to your feedback!

Miscellaneous Questions and Answers:

So, are we saying that the baby wash is also equal to the purpose cleaner? And if so, is the baby wash also a replacement or a substitute for the face wash in the first step for the regimen?

I’d actually like to hear from more of you on this. I don’t personally like baby wash, Purpose, or Clean & Clear because they are heavily scented. But if it’s working for people, it might be a low cost option.

I been on the regimen for 4 months and am almost completely clear all I have is scars and a few whiteheads. I have a question for Dan what can I do to help with my scars every time a pimple goes away I get a scar I get all frustrated. Please tell me what to use or do. I tried ur aha and it helped little bit. Thanks

You’re doing the best possible thing you can do, which is to clear up your skin and thus prevent future scarring. In order to prevent scarring more completely, be vigilant in your adherence to the Regimen. And whatever you do, do not pick! If you must pop, that can sometimes be done without scarring, but avoid picking at all costs.

For more on scarring, check out the brand new scars pages.

What about the new labels (that you mentioned in a recent blog post)?

These are probably a while away still. We’re planning an entire site redesign which will incorporate the new labels and a whole bunch of new stuff.

Moisturizer Questions and Answers:

Can’t wait to try (the new non-SPF moisturizer). How about shine? The old moisturizer made my skin shine and appear oily. I’m hoping that this one won’t as much. I like the matte look. :)

The new moisturizer should be much less shiny than the old one. It has a nice matte finish.

Will the new moisturizer…be available in a tube, instead of a pump bottle?

We are putting it in a bottle to start. In the future, we may switch to a tube.

Will (the new non-SPF moisturizer) be more moisturizing as well?

It should be equally moisturizing. The old moisturizer was extremely moisturizing already. If you are having problems with any moisturizer not providing enough hydration, consider adding 5-6 drops of jojoba oil into each application.

Dan, could you tell us something about the developmental phase of this new moisturizer particularly how the ingredients were chosen and the mixture defined? I have understood that the company behind the Acne.org doesn’t have as great resources to put into the development of new products as some others so how is it possible that this moisturizer is “the best moisturizer they’ve ever tried”?

I wonder where you got the idea that we don’t have great resources!? Quite the contrary, we have some of the greatest minds in the U.S. and in the world working with us closely on each formula. Our BP, for instance, is made by a company which is owned by a cosmetic chemist who is renown in the skin care world as the leading BP manufacturer bar none. When it comes to our moisturizer, I researched ingredients at length myself, and then worked very closely with a team of top tier cosmetic chemists from around the world, all of us laboring on over 100 samples until we have arrived at our latest one. Acne.org has access to the best people in the world. I would have it no other way. We carefully work as a team to choose each ingredient. I am also personally involved in each phase, sometimes to an excruciating degree, if you were to ask the chemists :)

As always, I will let the products speak for themselves. I aim to produce literally the world’s best product in each category for all of us to use. If I can’t achieve that for us, I see no reason to produce it.

Will we still have an option to buy the old (non-SPF mositurizer) formulation once the new one comes in? Will the old one be for sale?

No. The new moisturizer is improved. I think you’ll be very happy with it. I went with my gut on this one. I quite simply don’t want anything but the best out there, and we have a “new best” now.

Makeup Questions and Answers:

Does it help if the make-up says non-comedogenic? …and hypoallergenic and fragrance free?

Seeing “non-comedogenic” on a product doesn’t mean much. There is no regulating organization when it comes to claiming the term “non-comedogenic”. Anyone can print this phrase on any product, no matter the ingredients. When it comes to “hypoallergenic”, products do have to undergo testing to put this claim on the product. However, many products which do not claim “hypoallergenic” are also extremely gentle. “Fragrance free” formulas are devoid of added fragrances but are not necessarily completely scent free due to natural ingredients in the product which may have a slight scent. I always look for fragrance free products because (1) I just happen to hate fragrance, and (2) the less unnecessary ingredients the less chance of any reactions or problems.

Could you expound on what your research has revealed about isopropyl?

Isopropyl Isostearate and Isopropyl Myristate are two highly offending ingredients from rabbit studies. When scientists rubbed various compounds on albino rabbit ears, these two ingredients tended to clog pores to a very high extent. Myristal Myristate and Laureth-4 presented as the two other most offending ingredients. Another “Iso”, Isopropyl Palmitate, was also comedogenic, albeit to a slightly lesser degree. Keep in mind, however, that the scientists applied all of these ingredients at a very high percentage. Cosmetic manufacturers usually use them in small amounts in cosmetic formulas. I personally choose to avoid these heavy offenders just to stay on the safe side.

How long would you have to stop using makeup to have these (Acne Cosmetica) bumps clear up? And what if you use mineral foundation?

This is a good question. Since Acne Cosmetica appears more non-inflamed, I would surmise that it would take a bit longer than inflamed acne to clear it up. But I do not have close personal experience in this area. Would anyone like to comment on how long it took them to clear up their cosmetic induced acne?

Dan, oh Dan. When will you start recommending mineral makeup for acne prone skin?

I don’t foresee it. In the name of science and in the name of Acne.org I went to the mall and full-on applied mineral makeup one day and wore it around for the rest of the day. I detested the heavy, ongoing feel of it, and it was everything I could do to not wash it off. Particularly, it was incredibly itchy. This tendency to induce itchiness causes scratching, which in turn produces irritation. In speaking with some women who have tried lots of different types of makeup, they seem to have experienced the same itchiness and cakey feel when it comes to mineral makeup.  What about the rest of you?  What do you think?

Sunscreen questions and answers:

When should we expect to see your suncreen product available to purchase?

I’m hoping to get a sample into FDA required testing within a month or so. This testing takes a minimum of 3 months, after which point we need to produce labels, bottles/tubes, etc. New product introductions are a lengthy process. I’m hoping for next year when the sun again climbs high in the sky.

Dan, I’ve followed your website for years and to my knowledge, you’ve always said that avobenzone is a breakout trigger and that zinc oxide was the best option for acne-prone people. Since when did your philosophy on this change? And what is the reason behind the change? You always seemed vehemently anti-avobenzone before, and the sudden change of heart is confusing.

I can see why you are confused. I was vocally anti-Avobenzone before, and I stand by that decision because all of the Avobenzone-based sunscreens on the market broke me out. However, I always made to sure to include the caveat that it may be the Avobenzone that was breaking me out and it may be something else. If there is one thing I’ve learned over the years it is that life presents us with a multitude of variables, and it’s almost never a good idea to jump on one variable as the cause of something.

But after literally years of testing zinc and titanium dioxide based over-the-counter sunscreens, and after an equal amount of time formulating zinc and titanium dioxide sunscreens myself, I realized these ingredients are not an option. They are simply too flake-promoting, no matter the percentage of emollients I put into the formulas. At the end of my rope, I decided to formulate with Avobenzone myself, thus ensuring that all other variables were safe. It turns out that Avobenzone must not have been the culprit of my previous breakouts because after about 6 months of daily use of the Avobenzone formula I produced, my skin looks and feels great and is consistently and predictably almost perfect. I have received an overwhelmingly positive response from all of those who I asked to sample it as well.

So what was caused my breakouts then? It’s hard to say. I’ll keep looking into other variables and see if I can pinpoint something.