I read three studies recently on Sodium L-Ascorbyl-2-Phosphate (SAP), which is a topically applied vitamin C derivative. It is an antioxidant which is showing statistically significant acne clearing over time. It seems to clear the skin about as much as other topical prescriptions. This sounds impressive, but keep in mind that most topical prescriptions only clear the skin 40-50%. This is why The Regimen is so important because it completely clears the skin, which is what people really want. But I digress…
The three studies I read were in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, Cosmetic Dermatology, and the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. They all used 5% SAP and show around 40-50% clearing of acne after 8-12 weeks with very few side effects. SAP has a good safety profile. Only a very small percentage of participants in the studies withdrew because of adverse effects even at a relatively high 5% titration.
Why might it work? Squalene is the most abundant fatty substance in the skin. Some scientists hypothesize that acne may be partly due to squalene oxidation. SAP is an antioxidant. Next, it may help reduce inflammation, which can not only help calm acne, but may also help prevent scarring to some degree and also help clear hyperpigmentation a bit faster.
I am always trying new ingredients in Acne.org products, and this is on my list to also try. I’ll let you know if and when it makes it into one of our products.
- Ikeno H, Ohmori K. “Open Study Comparing Sodium L-Ascorbyl-2-Phosphate 5% Lotion Versus Adapalene 0.1% Gel for Acne Vulgaris.” Cosmetic Dermatology. 2007; 20(6): 368-372.
- Ruamrak C, Lourith N, Natakankitkul S. “Comparison of clinical efficacies of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, retinol and their combination in acne treatment.” International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2009; 31: 41-46.
- Woolery-Lloyd H, Baumann L, Ikeno H. “Sodium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate 5% lotion for the treatment of acne vulgaris: a randomized, double-blind, controlled trial.” Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2010; 9: 22-27.
We just started selling new Travel Sized products in 3.4 oz. bottles. Airport security (TSA) in the United States sets the limit for carry on products at 3.4 ounces, so we went right up to that legal limit. These Travel Sized products should last you for about 12-13 days which should be plenty even for a longer trip.
The new labels are going out on almost all of the products now. I’m super curious what you guys think of them once you have them and are using them. Please let me know.
Leading medical journals have published two articles recently on the potency of glycolic acid to clear acne. It’s nice to see this hard evidence come in after so many years of all of us realizing first hand that glycolic acid helps keep us clear.
The first article in The Journal of Dermatology attempted to gauge if glycolic acid peeling helps improve acne, and if it does, whether it is through its ability to kill acne bacteria (P. Acnes). The researchers found “significant improvement of inflammatory eruptions from the first application.” They also found that glycolic acid kills acne bacteria: “Each treated side (of the person’s face) had much lower numbers of colonies compared with the untreated side…”
The second article in the Journal of the German Dermatological Society summarized what we are now seeing in the medical literature when it comes to glycolic acid and acne: “Patients assess their skin as more tensile, firmer, smoother and more youthful looking after the use of AHA containing products. For mild acne, the efficacy has been proven by double-blinded, placebo-controlled randomized clinical trials.”
For more on how to use glycolic acid with acne, see this video:
To order Acne.org 10% Glycolic Acid (AHA+) go here.
- Takenaka Y, et al. “Glycolic acid chemical peeling improves inflammatory acne eruptions through its inhibitory and bactericidal effects on Propionibacterium acnes.” The Journal of Dermatology. 1012; 39(4): 350-4.
- Babilas P, Knie U, and Abels C. “Cosmetic and dermatologic uses of alpha hydroxy acids.” Journal of the German Dermatological Society. 2012; 10(7): 488-91.
If you order an Acne.org Cleanser, you will now get the new label design! We changed the names of a few of the products too. Acne.org Cleanser is now called “Gentle Cleanser,” because, really, that’s what it is. Acne.org Treatment will become simply “Benzoyl Peroxide (2.5%),” and our Acne.org AHA+ will become simply “Glycolic Acid (10%).” The names of Acne.org Moisturizer and Jojoba Oil will not change. Overall, we’re going for super straightforward in both the names of our products and the look of the packaging. We also added QR codes to the back of products so people can easily scan and learn exactly how to use them.
Right now only the Cleanser is being sent with the new label, but the other products will slowly start being sent with the new label design in the coming months.
Enjoy! And as always, definitely let me know what you think of it.
The Regimen calls for waiting 5-15 minutes after cleansing before you applying benzoyl peroxide. For the past few weeks, I’ve been eliminating this wait. I have been cleansing my skin, patting dry, and then immediately treating with benzoyl peroxide. I’m questioning the waiting time after cleansing for a couple of reasons:
• People often simply do not have the time
• It may not be necessary
I want The Regimen to be as easy as possible to follow. Eliminating the waiting between cleansing and applying benzoyl peroxide could be a good step in that direction.
So far, my skin is still perfectly clear even though I am not waiting the prescribed 5-15 minutes after cleansing.
My question for you guys: Have you experimented with not waiting after cleansing like I’m currently doing? How did it go?
Update: A few of you have been asking for an SPF update. I’m working on getting it feeling just right with ingredients that are uncompromisingly high quality yet within financial reach. The bottom line is that it will come out when all of this comes together but I can’t guarantee when that will be. It may take some time since SPF is quite a tricky brew. I know it’s been a very long time, and it may still be longer. I can promise you one thing–that I am working on it and will let you know the minute it’s done.
In the meantime: A couple of options:
1. Olay Complete All Day UV Moisturizer with a 5-6 drops of jojoba oil added.
2. If that doesn’t work well enough to take care of flakiness, you can mix equal parts Olay Complete All Day UV Moisturizer with Acne.org Moisturizer, and then add 5-6 drops of jojoba oil.
3. Another option is Philosophy Hope In A Jar SPF30. I love this stuff but it is zinc based like so it is a flake promoter, much like the Olay. Since I use benzoyl peroxide and need something to combat flakes, I often mix equal parts Philosophy Hope In A Jar SPF30 with Acne.org Moisturizer plus 5-6 drops of jojoba oil. This gives me an SPF of around 15 and keeps me pretty good on flakes. The only downside is that the Philosophy SPF is very expensive (around $35 for 2 ounces). But since I mix it with Acne.org Moisturizer it goes twice as far.
Spot treatment: Someone asked about the spot treatment as well. This project is on the back burner at this point. In the meantime, the AHA+ works so well for spot treating that it is definitely a suitable alternative.
Grrr. I have the distinct displeasure to inform you guys but after months of costing out the SPF, the pricing is still not working. I have certain principles that I won’t compromise. The first is I won’t launch a new product that I don’t feel is equal to my OCD perfectionism, including instructing our lab to formulate with only the very best USP grade ingredients. OCD perfectionism can be detrimental when you find yourself reading phone texts 4 times for grammar and punctuation before pressing send–not that I do that ;), but when it comes to products used on inflammatory acne-prone skin, this type of perfectionism is warranted. Next, I want all Acne.org products to be within reach of everyday people. The Regimen is not just for the rich. As some of you noted, I could release the SPF at a high price, but it just doesn’t feel right. In fact, that feels kinda gross.
In the meantime I am going to keep pressing forward on aggressive USP grade raw ingredient pricing. I am keeping this project on the top of our list of priorities, to the point where my coworkers are giving me threatening stares–but have no timeline I can give for now. A reminder of good UV-protection options in the meantime:
1. Hats: A wide brimmed hat provides 100% UVA blockage.
2. Olay Complete all day UV moisture spf 15 sensitive skin + 5-6 drops of jojoba oil: Olay is my one and only recommendation for over-the-counter SPF support at this time. Be sure to add 5-6 drops of jojoba oil to help combat the flakiness you may experience from the Olay.
A final summary note: As the sun blazes higher in the sky, remember to become aware once again of increased sensitivity to the sun from AHAs and retinoids.
*Acne.org is in no way connected with Olay or any other product or company. This link is provided for convenience of readers only. Acne.org receives no payment or compensation in any form for this recommendation.
SPF: We have been painstakingly sourcing each ingredient from around the world in an attempt to keep the price on the SPF within reason and within reach. We’re making good progress, and it’s my goal (perhaps I should say prayer since it’s not entirely up to me) to put a sample into FDA required stability testing soon so it can be out for at least part of this summer’s season. No promises, but we’re working on it every day. Depending on certain ingredient lead times and availability, my fingers are crossed that we can make this happen sooner rather than later.
Spot Treatment: The last spot treatment we designed seemed to have everything going for it, and then wham, our testers tried it under BP. It balled up and looked like mini cottage cheese curds on the skin. At the same time, my mind got piqued regarding other potentially beneficial ingredients, and I have been reading about some of them while having a team of people gather research on others. The spot treatment appears to be more of a long term project at this point. I want to launch a spot treatment only when it is revolutionary and amazing since the AHA+ already works so well for me. However, it is very much on the radar.
Moisturizer: For quite some time now, because of my extreme schedule and inability to read through the message boards as much as I would like, Brandy and C’est La Vigne have been updating me regularly on your posts. Rest assured that if you express your concerns to C’est or Brandy, they are likely to be expressed to me. Lately, Brandy and C’est have been telling me that several of you would like me to bring the old moisturizer back. I am hearing you and understand your frustration. However, with my apologies, I’m afraid this is not possible. First, since I would not be recommending it or mentioning it on the web site, I would need to produce it in very small amounts. This is an extremely expensive proposition on several levels–small label runs & small production runs would run the cost into an entirely new “private label” placement in which prices would reflect expensive boutique brands. Next, our full-time team is swamped with current products, and we do not have the resources to relaunch a product at this time. Finally, I feel more comfortable with people using the new moisturizer. While the new formula requires more generous application (at least 3 pumps), the increased gentleness and soothing ingredients that the new moisturizer keep me steadily on board with strongly recommending it over the previous version. For those of you who are experiencing increased dryness with the new moisturizer, please read this post for my recommendation on how much to use, but keep in mind that our current batch of pumps dispense a bit less, so you will need at least 3 full pumps, not 2.