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Alpha Hydroxy Acid - "AHA" (aka Glycolic Acid)

Naturally occurring acid which powerfully exfoliates - I prefer 10% concentrations

"... superficial peeling will hasten the transition of closed comedones to the surface of the epidermis resulting in a quicker clearance of the lesions." Seminars in Cutaneous Medicine and Surgery. 2008.1

"... available trials do provide support to the widespread clinical impression that superficial chemical peels have utility in the management of acne and oily skin." Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology. 2010.2

"[Hydroxy acids] play an important role in cosmetic formulations, as well as in many dermatologic applications, such as ... acne." Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology. 2010.3

"Alpha- and beta-hydroxy acid peels both offer successful adjunctive treatment of facial acne vulgaris." Dermatologic Surgery. 2008.4

"Based on the results of this study, we can state [glycolic acid] and [amino fruit acid] peels are efficacious for comedonal acne." Journal of Cosmetics and Laser Therapy. 2010.5



Spot treatment:

I use just a tiny bit when spot treating

I do The Regimen religiously every day. However, once in a while I'll still see a zit forming somewhere. In that case, I still do The Regimen, but I also blast the zit with 10% glycolic acid after applying the benzoyl peroxide. In my personal experience, this combo often prevents the zit from maturing. I asked other people to see how this worked for them, and they weighed in on it here. Keep in mind that the way this works best is if you catch it very early.

How well did alpha hydroxy acid work at stopping zits from enlarging and healing them faster?
Excellent
Very Good
Good
Fair
Poor

ice cube Note: Icing a lesion for a minute or two prior to spot treating may help, but I need more input from you guys.

Body acne:

I am generous when treating my upper back

The one-two punch of benzoyl peroxide and AHA has worked brilliantly when I treated my back in the past. You can read my bacne regimen here. When I had regular bacne, I kept my bacne under pretty much complete control by applying this bacne regimen religiously.2

 

Exfoliation/Flakiness Control:

I use a thin line when applying to my entire face. More than this and it stings too much for me.

If you're having issues with flakiness, 10% glycolic acid will cure it (jojoba oil works well too). It can be fun to use from time to time in place of your usual moisturizer to really combat flakes and give you a nice even glow to your complexion. Often when I've been using AHA as a moisturizer people will comment on how great my skin looks.

 
The amount I use varies depending upon how large of an area of my skin was irritated.

Combatting irritation: When anything rubs against the skin repeatedly, such as a chin strap or helmet for example, it irritates the skin and can cause a breakout. Attempt to avoid or reduce irritation when possible. If you do end up irritating your skin, you may find like I do that applying AHA after your next Regimen application can help prevent an irritation-induced acne flare up. When I apply AHA about 10-15 minutes after applying BP, the addition of AHA is usually the extra help I need to prevent an irritation induced breakout.

 

sun SUNBURN ALERT: AHA may increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun and particularly the possibility of sunburn. Use a sunscreen and limit sun exposure while using AHA and for a week after discontinuing its use. I suggest Olay All Day UV for Sensitive Skin plus 4-5 drops of jojoba oil as a nice non-comedogenic sunscreen.

Important Important: Do not use AHA until you have been on The Regimen for several weeks. It can be quite irritating and stinging if you use it at the onset of a benzoyl peroxide regimen.

b

Where to get it

b
6 oz AHA DanielKern.com
6oz. size 10% glycolic acid plus licochalcone.
Alpha Hydrox Drugstore.com or store shelves
You can sometimes find this product at your local drugstore, and always at drugstore.com. I have tried pretty much every drugstore brand alpha hydroxy acid, and this is the only one I've found to work for me.

References

1. Kempiak S, Uebelhoer N. "Superficial chemical peels and microdermabrasion for acne vulgaris." Seminars in Cutaneous Medicine and Surgery. 2008; 27(3): 212-220.

2. Aztori L, at. al. "Glycolic acid peels in the treatment of acne." Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology. 1999; 12(2): 119-122.

3. Kornhauser A, Coelho S, Hearing V. "Applications of hydroxy acids: Classifications, mechanisms, and photoactivity." Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology. 2010; 3: 135-214.

4. Kessler E, et. al. "Comparison of α- and β-hydroxy acid chemical peels in the treatment of mild to moderately severe facial acne vulgaris." Dermatologic Surgery. 2008; 34(1): 45-50.

5. Ilknur T, et. al. "Glycolic acid peels versus amino fruit acid peels for acne." Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy. 2010; 12(5): 242-245.